SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550

Stuck dowel pins in transmission

<< < (3/4) > >>

mickwinf:
I had trouble with the pins in the selector fork, ended up tapping with a light hammer until it fell out.

alexdecker:

--- Quote from: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 11, 2022, 01:46:03 PM ---On my 400 I  was reluctant at first to dismantle my transmission. I took plenty of photographs before I removed the two gearshafts placing them as complete assemblies into clear zip lock bags. I decided I needed to remove some surface rust that was present on some none gear surface parts so dismantled one shaft almost completely. Lots of photos plus some written notes were used together with my workshop manual & the parts manual for rebuild. Cleaning the empty casings  & painting them was much easier with gears etc removed. When I was unsure about some details when putting the engine together I sought help here. I had not dismantled a motorcycle engine in over 50 years I am now much more confident in my rebuild thanks to advice from here. Plus of course the wealth of U Tube videos that I used as tutorials.

--- End quote ---

Ah, but I definitely want to remove the gears from the engine case. I just don't want to take the gears apart separately, and wondered what the best way of going about cleaning them then was, if I even should clean them. But being that oily and then taken out of the case, its hard not to have any dust or debris get stuck to them…

The selector fork only goes out when the dowel pin comes out - hence the headache :)

alexdecker:

--- Quote from: mickwinf on February 11, 2022, 02:15:39 PM ---I had trouble with the pins in the selector fork, ended up tapping with a light hammer until it fell out.

--- End quote ---

Dare I ask where you tapped with that hammer? Not sure what steel is hardened and what can't take any light taps in that whole area…

Oddjob:
Alex just last week I had the exact same problem. They had been in there for well over 40 years and were rusty as well.

One came out pretty easy with a magnet, the others refused to budge even a little but I got them both out in the end within 10 minutes.

First drop some lube down there, not oil, WD or plus gas, I used some stuff called Deep Creep which is pretty good. Wait a few minutes for it to sink in. Now turn the case upside down so you've got gravity lending a hand, start to flick the selector back and too, you want them to hit against the casing so the shock is transmitted down the fork, after 30 seconds of this, check the pins and see if they have moved, one had and was sucked out by the magnet, one hadn't so back to flicking it again, couple of minutes later that fell out.

alexdecker:

--- Quote from: Oddjob on February 11, 2022, 03:01:40 PM ---Alex just last week I had the exact same problem. They had been in there for well over 40 years and were rusty as well.

One came out pretty easy with a magnet, the others refused to budge even a little but I got them both out in the end within 10 minutes.

First drop some lube down there, not oil, WD or plus gas, I used some stuff called Deep Creep which is pretty good. Wait a few minutes for it to sink in. Now turn the case upside down so you've got gravity lending a hand, start to flick the selector back and too, you want them to hit against the casing so the shock is transmitted down the fork, after 30 seconds of this, check the pins and see if they have moved, one had and was sucked out by the magnet, one hadn't so back to flicking it again, couple of minutes later that fell out.

--- End quote ---

This was brilliant, thank you so much. Went ahead and did exactly this. Had to apply a little bit of heat as well, but knocked it around for a good 5 min. and all of a sudden it came out enough for me to remove the fork and push the pin out from the back instead :)

NOW this case is going to a professional to get that god forsaken seized screw from the other thread out of the casing :)

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page