SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550

Getting top end vapor blasted. Leave valve guides in?

<< < (3/4) > >>

Sesman:
The oven drying was in expectation of vapour blasting. Drying the media and blasting with air is more effective than washing.

I agree, baking powder can be effective, but I’ve never rated it for paint prep.

Personally I’d bead blast, but only external surfaces and not before taking great care to exclude media from galleries I’d sill wash, dry, blast a couple of cycles on the assumption media has got into the oil ways.

Spitfire:
I did mine old school, I did not strip the bottom end just cleaned it, I used Dremel, Brillo pads, Lolly sticks, McDonalds wooden stirrers, wet and dry, the result was  lots of bashed and bruised fingers and nice clean components.
Then paint and popped the head, barrels, oil filter cover in the oven, the crankcases cured themselves when I ran the motor.



Cheers

Dennis

murdock:
en las fotos no se ve tan mal , se ve pintura vieja , si vas a pintar  y no tienes compresor de aire podrias utilizar un decapante , un removedor de pintura y luego si un buen labado , ademas de lana de acero y cepillos , aqui podran indicarte que pintura anticalorica utilizar , creo que la marca es silominz o algo asi


in the photos it doesn't look too bad, it looks like old paint, if you are going to paint and you don't have an air compressor you could use a paint stripper, a paint remover and then a good scrubbing, plus steel wool and brushes, here they can tell you which anti-corrosion paint to use, I think the brand is silominz or something like that.
the oil passages can be cleaned with thinner or some other solvent.

alexdecker:

--- Quote from: Spitfire on February 16, 2022, 04:28:25 PM ---I did mine old school, I did not strip the bottom end just cleaned it, I used Dremel, Brillo pads, Lolly sticks, McDonalds wooden stirrers, wet and dry, the result was  lots of bashed and bruised fingers and nice clean components.
Then paint and popped the head, barrels, oil filter cover in the oven, the crankcases cured themselves when I ran the motor.



Cheers

Dennis

--- End quote ---

End result looks good, but I didn't think you could use Brillo pads on aluminum? I have some 0000 grade steel wool, and was thinking about trying that, but afraid of using it an aluminum…

Spitfire:
I've used Brillo pads since the 1970's, wet and dry, sometimes in conjuction with Solvol, I should imagine some of the coarser grades of steel wool would not be good with Alloy though.
I used to use this method to polish casings when the clear laquer failed.

Cheers

Dennis

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version