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Chain

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Oddjob:
That was the point John, I've seen videos where even a brand new sprocket moved excessively on the shaft even when it was locked up with the 2 bolts. It's down to the machining being sloppy, a good sprocket make shouldn't do this but a cheapo one will. So the teeth of the sprocket oscillate due to the slack fit, they appear to weave from side to side, this would then of course allow the chain to also weave, and maybe it's this that's the problem. Whereas it's supposed to be say 20mm wide it ends up being 26mm wide as it moves from side to side. There is of course supposed to be some movement but not that much. 

K2-K6:

--- Quote from: Johnwebley on April 18, 2022, 02:14:22 PM ---Two things,

The 20mm is the widest part,the heads of the pins,
Secondly, it should be difficult for the sprocket to move as well locking plate should hold it in position.

Any further thoughts?

I admit I can't be bothered to remove the sprocket cover to check the clearance,

I was just inquiring for the next time I need to swop a chain.

Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk

--- End quote ---

Something that may help John, I've been using castor oil on open (non sealed link) chains with very good results. It gets into the links properly, has very high lubrication properties,  low fling off and highly water resistant.  They are really smooth too when fully embedded with this.

Johnwebley:
Thanks for the info,

I use an original Peter Furlong chain case to keep the chain protected from road grit, and use Silkoline spray on lubricant to hopefully keep it in good condition,

The last chain got a really nasty tight spot,

Drum tight in one position, slack in  another,

I did check incase the sprocket was out of round, but seems ok,

Put around 400miles on new chain, seems sweet.

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JezzaPeach:
I discovered my 500/4 k2 had the wrong width o-ring chain fitted. It was 25mm across the rivets (widest point) and had been rubbing the casing and seal by the clutch pushrod. No excessive slack on the sprocket itself.
There were a couple of o-rings in the grease of the casing, suggesting the previous chain was also a sealed one, possibly also too wide, and had broken, and hit and broken the clutch pushrod.
The broken pushrod end had been turned round and the long remainder had ‘peened’ so it wouldn’t come out and had to come out via the clutch side. Graham provided a very nice new rod. DSS standard chain is now lubed with ‘Castrol Chain Lube Racing’

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