SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
400/4 build. Paused due to other commitments. But starting up again
Laverdaroo:
If you're dead set on using the Munit in that tray I think I would be tempted to cut a thin sheet of steel the same size as that tray, mount the Munit to the steel and run the earth from your frame to the plate. Nice and tidy and keeps things held in better with less tension and vibration.
Matt_Harrington:
--- Quote from: Laverdaroo on January 15, 2023, 04:25:46 PM ---If you're dead set on using the Munit in that tray I think I would be tempted to cut a thin sheet of steel the same size as that tray, mount the Munit to the steel and run the earth from your frame to the plate. Nice and tidy and keeps things held in better with less tension and vibration.
--- End quote ---
Roo, I agree with that.
Without looking at the bike, is there any room to put the M unt where the fuse box was?
ComfySofa:
In the garage today headscratching wiring up the 400. So far ive got the....
1. RegRec connected (whether it actually works ive no idea)!
2. Starter button working.
Annnnddd...thats about it...doing the simple stuff first...ive been following an munit wiring video on youtube but fucking no idea how to do the headlight with the stock switchgear so ive resorted to hot wiring a bulb with a couple of cable attached to it....if the light comes on....then i guessed right!
Oh....the horn...where does that bolt to? (thats another simple one i thinki could do..)
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I did post a link when I first read about your plan to fit an M Unit looks like something too complicated for me & my limited electrical abilies & understanding.
This is a cleverly-marketed German device that claims to simplify your custom wiring job. Available in normal (£213) or Bluetooth (£310) spec, it acts (among other things) as a fuse box, flasher unit and power distribution device. But perhaps the main idea is that it can receive signals from all the handlebar switches through a single wire, rather than the more usual bundle. As most people freak out at electrics, it sounds a tempting proposition.
The single-wire thing works fine, but only with a doohickey called an M-Button (£45), which you connect to the switches and hide in the handlebars – not always an easy task. It then uses can-bus technology to send the different signals down the single cable to the M-Unit, which typically lives under the seat.
Most people also use push-button switchgear with an M-Unit (typically made by Motogadget, Motone or ISR). But OE switches can work too.
I should say that you don’t have to use the M-Button; you can connect push-button switchgear directly to the M-Unit via a conventional bundle of wires. As they run under the tank anyway, you aren’t going to see them.
Motogadget M Unit Blue
I have a bit of a problem with the M-Unit system. Not only is it more complicated, expensive and fiddly to assemble than a conventional switchgear setup; the push-button switches use screw connections just like the ones in a domestic plug. I’ve seen these come undone on an iron, so they hardly seem suitable on a vibrating bike. Push-button switchgear has a couple of other drawbacks too – see switchgear in our guide to motorcycle electrics. The cheaper of the two M Units (the V2, £213) uses screw connections as well, but the newer M-Unit Blue (£310) is a bit more civilised, with spring contacts.
I refer to the below text as per my previous post link.
To protect the copper cable strands from the screws Motogadget supply little ferrules, like you get on the end of a bicycle gear cable, but I’ve never found there to be enough in the packet. I’m afraid it doesn’t stop there; the M Unit is predicated on the idea that you switch the entire bike on with one set of contacts. On some bikes (for example the ZXR400/750, CBX1000, W650), turning the ignition switch also connects part of the charging system. In other words, you need two separate sets of contacts to be on when you’re running, and off when you’re not. I’ve asked Motogadget’s tech support about this and they couldn’t advise me. You can work around it with a separate switch or relay, or use one of the ‘Aux’ connections, but it’s hardly ideal.
My advice is to ask yourself the question: what problems do you anticipate your custom bike will have that an M-Unit will solve? If you want to vary your indicator flash rate, or the pulsing of your brake light, or turn your bike on with your phone, then go for it. If you just want a bike with working lights, horn and ignition, save your money.
Laverdaroo:
I completely disagree with all of that Ted, done two of these now and onto my thrird fitment of one onto the 550. Far simpler, far easier and faster if you're making a loom.
If you want an easy to take off, bolt on system then go for the OE loom, if you want a few more options and to do away with loads of un needed stuff the M unit is spot on. They're not £300 plus if you shop about and really easy to fit. I'm on the phone to Andy later re his so we can have a chat. Honestly, the Munit's are really good. Yes you can have keyless, yes you can have one wire this and that but YOU DONT HAVE TO!
It has a diagnostice setting showing everything and and draw down from individual circuits and a heap of other features but its good. I have an M button on the 400 but not on the 550.
FOR EXAMPLE........
Feed from switch to INPUT on the Munit from headlight light (for example) with the switch grounded.
Earth from light to Frame or similar
Feed from Munit OUTPUT to the light
tap switch, light comes from, tap again, light goes off..............simples!
Inputs on one side of frame, outputs on the other, keeps the wiring tidy, theres far less of it and easier for fault finding. If ever there's a fault it's a grounding fault and easily found. The screws dont come undone and have a plastic lock washer incorperated into the set up so never vibrate loose, already proved that one having a unit fitted to a DR350 which is green laned often by a pal. He has had zero issues with it.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version