SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550

550 F2 - ignition coils required. OEM or equivelant?

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Laverdaroo:
Are you sure Ash, thast bloody good of yiou mate?
MIne are shagged with one of the leads broken off the front of the coils and hanging limp. I would like to do them but it was all about the cost and time equation for me as Ive just lost my job and having to reign things in a bit currently.  Let me have youre address in a pm Ash and I'll bung you some recompence for your kind gesture. Really appreciate this Ash, thankyou mate :) :)

deltarider:
Do the coils really need repair? I have had quite a few coils in my hands that by feel seemed to have flimsy plugwires, but in fact were OK.

Laverdaroo:
Yeah, its actually snapped inside and hanging by a thread.

Rolfbulmer:
I am at the same point too. My coils ht leads look like they have been ripped out and thrown away - not with bike when I got it.
Cost of resin plus HT leads and plugs brings it to the point where new may be cheaper.
Just not sure what to do.......

Oddjob:
New may be cheaper but unless they are new genuine then they ain’t cheaper in the long run imo.

The original coils are extremely robust, the weak point are the leads, they are now 40-50 years old and subject to frankly a bloody hard life, hot/cold environment, water being blown onto them at high speed etc, it’s really a wonder they lasted this long.

From personal experience I find that fitting the coils backwards, so that the leads come out of the back helps a lot. Even in the 70/80s they were known for shorting out onto the engine, in the dark and damp it could look like some sort of laser show going on under the tank. I distinctly remember wrapping the leads in insulation tape back then. I felt the reason was that the routing of the leads caused them to be filled with water, as the coil exit faced forward water would get driven in there by the speed of the bike, collect in that area and the slowly creep down the lead under gravity. Turning the coils around stopped this, the leads now had to route across the engine and the heat helped dry them. I could run with bare leads again, even hold them and not get a shock. In short it stopped all the problems with shorting, the leads looked better routed across the top of the engine rather than having big loops exposed under the headstock. It also meant the ht caps were better protected as the coil leads were no longer facing forward and again open to water ingress but backwards and thus the wind now helped dry them instead of forcing water into the cap.

Just my experience, others have since done this and I’ve yet to hear anyone say it didn’t work better. ,

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