SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400

I think the slides are in the wrong bodies

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Sesman:
Hang in there Eldrick. If you have got it running nicely at 1200rpm you must be doing something right. Keep at it.

Eldrick:

--- Quote from: K2-K6 on September 20, 2022, 05:03:40 PM ---Unsure if I've got the understanding of that correct.

The twistgrip must have some degree of slack when setup properly, this to avoid the throttle being pulled when you turn the steering left & right. Too tight and the throttle will open as you go from centre to full turn, also it'll likely pull the nipple off the end of the cable without a certain amount of space to operate.

These are specified in the manual.

--- End quote ---
I do have some slack whereas before I had lots, as in very poor responce. A short run up and down the street tomorrow will let me know if it is not enough slack but it is certainly going to be better  than the play I had before.

Eldrick:

--- Quote from: Bryanj on September 20, 2022, 05:41:02 PM ---"Jam a drill bit in there" is not what you do, you use the parallel shank part of a small drill bit as a feeler gauge

--- End quote ---

Understood, it was total  sarcasm to follow from the previous statement I made in the same post, honest.

Cappodimonte:
Took photos of one of my carbs and the needle slide just to have them seen separately before  I start reassembly.. as you can see the curve on the slider which should be facing away from the engine is clearly evident.
Inserting the slider and it completely drops to the bottom of the inlet tract as you would expect with a smooth action and no sticking.
Once fully assembled the adjustment to raise the sliders will be made and equalled out on bench, they will then be properly adjusted via 4 vacuum gauge so that all readouts are  the same.
Not difficult just time consuming.
All my carbs are stored in separate boxes so no cross contamination occurs, before anyone points out the rusty bits they will be zinc plated and passivised before assembly.
Secret in dealing with multi cylinders and carbs is TAKE YOUR TIME and DONT RUSH., if in doubt consult the manual every time.

Oddjob:
Trouble with the manual is that it virtually tells you nothing. They don't appear to think anyone would ever take them apart.

Couple of pointers if you don't object.

You'll find Honda fitted screws that are in fact too short for the drilling, the carb tops are a perfect example. Most of the thread is left unused and corrosion of that thread left unused mean if you attempt to fit a longer screw if starts to grab and then strip away the thread. Clean the threads with a tap, measure how much thread is left unused and fit a longer screw, that why a lot of them strip out, they are only really gripping on a few threads. IIRC, the top screws are 16mm and you need 20mm, the float bowl screws are the same, look at the pic and you'll see the screws don't reach the top of the thread, the pressure of the spring washer tends to strip these threads out as only a few are getting used. If in doubt, fit longer screws and trim to suit the position. Don't have threads of the screw exposed as they corrode and when you try and remove them it can strip out the threads as it passes down them. Go for a flush finish.

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