Other Stuff > Tricks & Tips
polishing thread?
Oddjob:
Oh and before I forget, yesterday I started something that may interest members.
How to get better results and cheaper chroming for your parts.
I have 2 old CB500 chain adjusters, 50 year old parts, not too bad TBH BUT with the usual pitting etc. So I decided to spend a little time on one and leave the other alone. They have both been de-chromed so back to bare metal, although it's a sort of dull grey metal now. The pits are easy to see now, you can also see which parts will start to rust first, so I set about removing all the pits and removing all the potential areas where rust would start to get a hold of first, you don't see these areas until you look very closely and see the damage already caused by rust, on the chain adjuster for instance it's the edges, they are really rough, lots of small cavities that water tends to hide in and sit there and slowly attack the chrome until it finally gets through and then it starts to attack the metal and blow off the nickel layer etc. So by removing these small cavities this will hopefully stop this happening after your expensive new chrome finish, putting a radius on the edges is another, lets get that water off there quicker.
I was intending to do a small thread on the subject but this has prompted me to bring it up before I finished. This was in answer to Roo having trouble with his plater re the chain guard and the small pits on there, I find my chromer loves it when I do a lot of the work beforehand, he charges me a pittance in comparison as it reduces his time spent on the piece by 80%.
Should I complete this?
Sesman:
Oh yes….
Oddjob:
Oh and before I forget completely, if you look at the pic of Roos brake plate, the area in the middle between the 2 ridges, that odd line that's appeared and those marks to the left of them are very typical of the stuff hiding under the paint.
To get between the hole for the brake lever and that small knob use a brand new brush Roo so the fronds are as long as possible, don't use that brush again until you need to access deep areas like that, use a brush already shortened for simple to reach areas.
The top of those ridges, use a flap wheel on those, it's got a flat surface so it's better for areas like that, they go really flat and all the damage will just melt away.
Oddjob:
Just spotted these on Amazon. In case anyone is after some.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mandrels-Cleaning-Finishing-Deburring-Abrasive/dp/B089F215V5/ref=sr_1_38?crid=37CFJC8F7TO54&keywords=abrasive+brushes&qid=1667830829&s=industrial&sprefix=abrasive+%2Cindustrial%2C67&sr=1-38
Sesman:
Purchased…ta.
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