SOHC.co.uk Forums > SOHC Singles & Twins
New Money Pit
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
You are not alone Phil as has been said many times it's a labour of love not a money making exercise.
Mine does not have genuine rear dampers, exhaust system or headlamp, not re-painted either.
My 400 that I rebuilt works out as follows.
Cost Price incl delivery £2045
Parts, rebore, machining etc £4639
CWC wheels & tyres £964
Total cost £7648
I think I might struggle to recoup 70% of the above outlay. - I do not think I will ever sell it.
Laverda Dave:
It's fatal to add up the cost of a restoration, if you knew at the start how much it would cost how many of us would actually restore one?
I was lucky with my RSA as I paid £415 for it 22 years ago and used it as my daily rider. When I restored it I worked out it had cost me around £2750. I therefore did well as I'd got so much use and enjoyment from it riding it and then restoring it.
The 400/4 I restored for the o/h and she didn't like due to the weight I lost out on big time although I did enjoy restoring it.
The silver lining about all our restorations though is that it's our hobby and the cost of the restoration is spread over a long period of time.
philward:
Reference my similar issues to Ben's 350, I've eventually - after few hours off using a .35mm drill (that eventually broke!) and Ted's suggested wire brush wire method, cleared the slow running jet. Re-checked all passageways/jets and all clear. I also bought a cheap carb kit that included floats after comparing images with those on the advert to the one on DS site, they were the same - and they are rubbish! The pivot hole is 1mm too thick and the 'tang' on the float that prevents the float dropping too far (and the needle valve falling out) is missing. Bought the kit as it obviously included the slow running jet just in case I couldn't unblock the original. Didn't want to use a pattern jet but Honda item not available now - but luckily not needed.
Anyway, as the original brass 'bread bin' style floats had a small amount of petrol in them, I checked whether there was any obvious leaks, which there wasn't when submerged in jug of water. so drilled a 1mm hole in each float and allowed to drain over night on some kitchen roll. The petrol was stagnant and obviously been in there for some time. Soldered up the holes. Set floats at 19mm. Idle screws sync'ed and carbs sync'ed via cables. Timing/points re-checked and spot on. As per previous post, compression 160psi on both sides.
After re-assembling everything and starting the bike, the bike didn't need choke (cut out if choke applied) and generally running rough (sounds too rich to me). Also 'hangs' on returning to idle. Revs fine in middle and upper range. Although only warmed up and run in the garage, the plugs are sooty.
I'm wondering whether the floats are too high and causing rich running.
Also got a noisy tappet that I've checked as OK when stone cold (but going to check again). As these have the eccentric cams adjustment from the side of the cambox, I've adjusted the tappet in question while the engine is running and 'tap' only goes when the engine revs drop (clearly holding valve open). On rebuild, checked rockers visually and all looked ok - didn't check eccentric rocker shaft with a micrometer.
Thought I'd get your opinion before doing any further work (possible engine out again).
Thanks again in anticipation
Oddjob:
You got the square type float Phil or the round type as there are different float heights for both.
philward:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 05, 2023, 02:18:45 PM ---You got the square type float Phil or the round type as there are different float heights for both.
--- End quote ---
Square type Ken - info says 18.5mm to 19.5mm for square (later round type 23mm - 26mm I think). New square one's don't seem to be available even as pattern.
The Honda manual for the 350 quotes using a Honda tool that measures angle of the float not a size in mm - info for the square type float comes from the web (various forums) - making me think about too higher float bowl level
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