SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Inlet Manifold studs - modify?
Orcade-Ian:
Hi folks,
Been mulling over the method of carb fitment on this 550 - the 350 and 400's are tight for space but I think the 550 is even worse. I have new manifold and airbox rubbers but don't like the idea of distorting them considerably to fight the bank back in. Yes, the air filter box is free, giving a bit more wiggle room. I know one or two folk have replaced the studs with bolts but that would be too visible. I'm considering removing the studs and silver soldering the nuts on and then re-plating them, so that they look right but act like bolts. I would probably remove about 1mm from the head end of the studs so there was no fear of them binding up. I would always prefer stud fixing so as not to wear the threads in the head but they don't come on and off that regularly (he said!)
Any thoughts?
Ian
Trigger:
Seems a lot of work for something that can be fitted in the time it take to make a cuppa ::)
I must of fitted hundreds of carbs over the years. To make life easier :
Fit the clamps after you have the manifold rubbers on. Put a smear of red rubber grease , on the air box to carb rubbers , drop the manifold rubbers in boiling water, take them out after a couple of minutes, (start on number 2&3 ) wipe dry, a spray of back to black silicone and they fall on.
Replace the two m6 bolts in the air box mounts and feed the clamps round the rubbers, place a smear of copper grease on the JIS screws and tighten up ;)
Always harder with old hard rubbers :o
Oddjob:
I've found that the easiest way to get carbs on and off is to drop the engine forward, that's assuming you've got the engine loose in the frame. So after fitting the engine just fit the back lower bolt and the back upper bolt, fit some frame protection around the frame tubes, like copper pipe insulation for instance or rags etc. Fit a small jack under the engine just to take the weight, remove the upper rear bolt and the engine will tilt forward, fit the carbs now and you'll find they go in easily and with all the rubbers in place. You can also remove the airbox mounting bolts and pull that back a little if you want some extra room.
Don't get the comment about bolts being too visible, I intend to replace my studs with bolts this time round, I'll be using the later 8mm headed bolts that Honda are still using. TBH they should be less obvious than the larger 10mm nuts it currently uses. Without the studs the carbs should slide in no problem. It's whether the bolts are easy to get at that may be a problem.
Orcade-Ian:
Thanks Graham,
I might give that method of yours a try first, it obviously works for you. The new rubbers are DS aftermarket ones, I hope that doesn't make it more difficult. Ken, I was meaning the bolt 'bodge' would be obvious - visible is probably not the right word. I was attempting to keep it looking standard and not modified - yeah, I should get out more!
Ian
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
On my 400 I found it pretty easy to fit the carbs back in place when the rear wheel, mudguard & battery box were not in place working backwards from the carbs it was easy to fit things without the struggle of a tight gap or distortion. The battery box on the 400 comes out easily with the plastic section of the rear mudguard out.
I don't know if that is the same amount of time involved as tipping the engine or more.
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