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I might be overthinking it but....

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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
After reading a few posts on using cold galvanising spray for the inside of mudguards I'm thinking that's a good idea except most primers I believe are porous so water molecules could pass through the interstitial molecular spaces thus trap water causing rusting.

Imho it needs an additional step with silver paint or clear lacquer to prevent the moisture getting through.

Orcade-Ian:
Ted,
I did the brake calipers on our MX-5, using Bilt Hamber Deox-C to get rid of every trace of rust and then sprayed them with Electrox (90 odd % zinc rich paint) from the same company.  That was 3 years ago and they still look as good as when I did them.  OK, we don't use that car in the winter but we ARE in Orkney only a mile or so from the Atlantic!  You wouldn't need to do the first stage and could paint over them if needed.  It's the rolled edges and spot welded/riveted brackets that are the worst bits on mudguards as you well know.

Ian

Oddjob:
Use zinc182 paint Ted not the spray. If you look at the mudguard I sent you you can see all the voids are filled, even the inner part of the wire tunnel is done, I blocked the bottom of the tunnel and filled it with paint and then drained it out. You can also just fill all the rolled edge voids by putting more on the brush, which you can't really do with spray.

I've been doing this since the 70s and when I sold a rear mudguard that I had done 30 years before it was still mint under the paint, even if the paint gets scratched it still protects near it.

Places I commonly do it are inside the headlight rim, inside the fork ears and down the fork tube on them, inside the points cover, inside the handlebars, front mudguard when I was using a metal one, inside the wheel rims, back of the exhausts to name those I an just think of.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
So are you all saying that the primer is not pourous?

Oddjob:
Doesn't seem to matter if it is Ted, I think it's more critical for all the recesses to be filled so they don't harbour water and rust it silently until it bursts through the other side. Do your new bars, just block the holes, thin the paint ever so slightly, fill the bars completely and then drain out. Check in 10 years and you'll see they are still rust free.

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