SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
Carbs Install
Oddjob:
Sorry Martin, just realised yours is a 750K6 and I've been posting links to the 550F2 switch, same switch, just longer wires.
K6 switch, https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k6-four-england_model14383/switch-starter_35150341600/ looks to be the same 7 wires. Except they are shorter as yours go into the headlight and the 550F2 go under the tank so need to be longer. Oddly is does have the red dot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295536686286?hash=item44cf5bf4ce:g:O9sAAOSwtCNePTcK&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4NJHm%2FISXriuA0Bw47xIdnukoYeTLBAFf8r807pD3RIwDTIIybRsIF0XWx6KjFwJ96HEW2GeM9e6RmUpuotpwc2gslndU0KrVVwePRkT928E0owFLJOD8L5cobh94WVJjHPaJMEeSE%2FEntZJWKxgOqZPQOk0Iyi569PKNtZCABQMWHU6yI8NedtauaDUBg6j%2Bngl3owaqn0QQkx9E6sAq1lrGpdmyl%2BpeDh0bCzUNupPfVT13YfP5L214AOQezK0ZcdqqwhLUY71hSODb2fruIJFDQNuCoNn3mo2BT2q6tRC%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76KvM7iYQ
Check out that price!!!!!
Martin6:
Thanks. Yes, a K6. I could always paint a black dot :D
I'll be interested to see what connectors and wire colours arrive. Guess, if not clear, I may have to open up the kill/light switches to continuity check and label them up. I can x-ref against my current switch to help.
Hopefully, there's enough room inside the headlamp bowl to fit any extra length of wire!
Oddjob:
I've just reassembled all 3 of my switches and 2 of them were R/H ones. I must say they were fairly easy to do and the starter button was pretty easy, it's just getting it fitted in the right order.
Just in case you feel like having another try I'll describe how it's done. First fit the horn button, after greasing the spring up really well so it doesn't rust in the future, the horn button has a flat side on the flange, this goes uppermost inside the switch, if you can read the TEC writing on the button from the outside it's in the right way. Next fit the yellow/red connector plate, this is shaped so there is a curve at the bottom, it slides into a recess in the switch housing, the next bit was slightly tricky but not even remotely hard, slide the white housing down into place whilst holding the horn button back with a small flat bladed screwdriver, you may have to pull the spring back a little, push it into place and secure with screw whilst holding the white box hard up against the wall of the housing, it has 2 flanges which push against the front wall. There should also be a shaped plate which screws into the housing which holds all the wires from the upper part of the switch in place inside the bottom part of the switch. I'll post a pic later today showing how it should look. That's it mate. Easy peasy. All I need to do on mine now is test all continuity when the switches operate and make sure they are no shorts, easy to do when you've unsoldered the kill switch plate, it's very close to the body when assembled.
Martin6:
Odd job,
Yes, I understand that, the issue I have is that the white plate you mention was separate from the copper live tab (what the black wire is soldered on to). So even when fully assembled, white housing screwed down, the pin of the button nicely through and sliding into contact with the yellow/Red plate, the copper live tab was just pushed against the Y/R plate by the button spring and starter remained on.
I must have assembled it half a dozen times on the bike, but when I took it off, I could see no way to stop the live plate from moving under the springs pressure into the Y/R plate. I assume that live plate should be firmly fixed in the white holder, so they were a single unit holding it firmly against the spring pressure. Mine had separated, broken. So that 50p part caused my problem!
Martin6:
There have been two beneficial side effects of my nearly 3 days on the starter button:
1. Getting the headlamp off to release the switchgear wiring was the prompt to investigate the pilot light, which wasn't working. No bulb inside the mounting was the cause! New bulb fitted, should be good to go.
2. As I rotated the bars to ease the wiring through, brake fluid started oozing out of the m/c banjo. Why did I feel the urge to pull the brake lever to see if it was brake fluid! A 20 minute general wipe down and clean up followed. Luckily, it was only loose and I could feel the bolt crushing the washers home as I tightened it. So far fine after bleeding some air out. I'll keep an eye on it.
I did know some of the fixings were loose, one of the front mudguard stay bolts came adrift when I trailered the bike home, prompting some general checking (lower rear shock bolts were also loose). But I'd missed the brake line fittings. I'll check top to bottom again.
The joy of old machinery ;D
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