SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
Carbs Install
Martin6:
On the first carb, I've removed the main jet and jet holder, but the needle jet is stuck in the carb body. How do you get the needle jet out?
Skoti:
Needle jets need to be tapped out from the top with a pin punch the correct size.
Change the needles and needle jets with original Honda items and you'll cure the lumpy running below 1/3 throttle.
Good luck
Skoti.
Nurse Julie:
Martin, you probably are doing it correctly but I thought I'd ask anyway, you are setting the float heights with the bank of carbs standing upright in the vertical position, like a flag pole?
Non 750 carbs I know but the theory is the same on all CB SOHC/4 carbs I'm my attached link below.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,23233.0.html
Martin6:
--- Quote from: Skoti on April 04, 2023, 08:05:46 PM ---Needle jets need to be tapped out from the top with a pin punch the correct size.
Change the needles and needle jets with original Honda items and you'll cure the lumpy running below 1/3 throttle.
Good luck
Skoti.
--- End quote ---
Thanks.
Martin6:
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on April 04, 2023, 08:13:47 PM ---Martin, you probably are doing it correctly but I thought I'd ask anyway, you are setting the float heights with the bank of carbs standing upright in the vertical position, like a flag pole?
Non 750 carbs I know but the theory is the same on all CB SOHC/4 carbs I'm my attached link below.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,23233.0.html
--- End quote ---
Thanks for this. I was setting mine with a Vernier, carbs angled so that the tang just touched the valve, but didn't move it down. So I think the same result, but I'll check with your method this time.
On my 750 K6 carbs, the bowl rim casting is a different shape to your photos. They have a lip for a strong compression of the rubber bowl seal, plus a small flange at the side within that. I set the vernier tip on that small flange, rather than the seal lip. No idea if that's right. Makes just under 1mm difference.
So far I'm only on no.1 carb. I've found:
- The air screw didn't have a spring on it. It hadn't moved though, so not likely that's my issue.
- This time I've taken the carbs off the gantry. No.1 slide is stiff after the first 1/2 of its movement. There was a small patch of corrosion inside the slide cylinder (of the carb body). I've gently polished that area with Autosol. That's improved it a little. Am I OK to give it a little more of a polish. I'm holding off, as I'm concerned I may interfere with the 'vacuum' seal if I over-polish it, but a little more may give a smoother movement to the end of its run. The slide movements of the other 3 carbs are fine.
Thanks.
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