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Disc drilling pattern, thoughts.

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K2-K6:
Running many different hole configuration, albeit on a smaller scale with mtb disc, the geometry is relative though I believe.

You can get away with far more adventurous design with longer pads, 4 pot for example, than single piston type circular pad contact.
They are just more stable when transiting the gap in the design. The good calipers have pad lengths extended quite a way to facilitate this on these design, running a some six pots that you can keep pad stable over most disc type, the pistons are smaller on leading edge to keep wear even though in relation to the largest trailing piston. They are roughly 3 to 4 times longer than width for pads though.

Too much gap with smaller round pads starts to give indication with noise, referenced as "turkey gobble" as it does make that sound especially when squeezing hard and with the pad/disc up to temperature. 

We use Galfer too in a similar arrangement particularly for high mud environments as they tend to wipe the pads with wavy edge and slots etc. Some type are much more cut away which id not use in high heat applications.

For durability, and especially with small round pads, I'd stick to circular holes in pattern of choice. They don't present aggressive edges to the pad in rotation, keep the pad stable with these Honda swing/singoe type caliper, and won't likely change pad wear .

Oddjob:
Might just be a case of you never know until you try Nigel, I've still got the standard discs to fall back on if they make too much noise or chew the pads up quickly.

K2-K6:
I like the adventurous patterns etc, it's more with smaller pads it ultimately tries to pull the leading edge of the pad into the disc and I don't like the feel of that aspect in how they operate.

Its a bit like the leading edge of a drum shoe that effectively gives it a servo type mechanical pull, also tries to pull the piston skew in the bore, especially as that comes out further when pad wears.

I've never worried about pad wear in use, that's if the brake does what I want it to do. Or the noise (just that some are obsessed with brake noise and complaining of that ) you'd usually get a sizzling as light contact but that goes away with more pressure, gobble seems to be present when higher pressure meets low supporting structure and gives indication of just how much the pad material is dropping into these gaps.

Be interesting to see wherever you end up, and if in use experience follows any of this.

Oddjob:
The Brembo calipers I'm fitting to the 1300 next week have 4 tiny pads Nigel, far smaller than the surface area of the 500 pads, you'd think they'd be a bigger problem with such slots.

I'm thinking of altering the way the back pad fits into the carrier as well, was never a big fan of such a small split pin holding in the pad, especially as the holding ridge of the carrier is so small, I was thinking of changing the split pin for a screw, drilling the pad where the split pin goes through and threading a 5mm thread into there, seem to recall there's another Honda which uses that type of arrangement.

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