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Some Minor Issues to Sort

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Martin6:
I've hopefully got the carbs where they need to be, for the moment!

Rather than add to that topic, I thought a new one is in order!

I have some miscellaneous other minor issues to have a crack at and any words of wisom are very welcome:
- Neutral switch needs checking, remains dimly lit when in gear;
- I have a strange tramping sensation through the bars on some roads at speeds over 30mph. I'm hoping it is wheel balancing, as the red dot is not right on the tyre valve, and there is a 20g wheel weight close to the valve, which isn't where I'd expect it? However it may be front suspension. Standing, front brake on and pumping the bars, it moves up and down and seems damped, but is stiff. Will check which fork oil it has in there. What grade is recommended for a compliant ride?
- Difficult to find neutral, easy when rolling to a stop, but not when stationary;
- May be related; the clutch bite seems quite late in the lever outwards movement, but no clutch slip is evident when i open the throttle. Is this usual?

👍

Bryanj:
Front forks are not normaly "stiff" Honda originaly used engine oil but later used ATF.
Lot of debate about the dot on tyres but personaly seen them all over the place with no effect, could need wheel truing or balancing, Honda tolerance for true is 3mm side to side and vertically(mot says 4mm) Sounds like neutral switch is failing and the clutch needs adjusting as per manual.
The full Honda workshop manual is on this site for download either in alladins cave or Ashs dropbox

Erny:
With regards to neutral switch - it can be also some unwanted connection of neutral switch wire to frame (ground). To check that disconnect wire from neutral switch, if control light is still on, look for wire issues, if not it is switch itself.

Martin6:
Thanks Bryan.

Yes, if the high bite point is not normal, I'll look to adjust the clutch. I have the downloaded manual and have the Haynes (not too impressed with the Haynes though).

I'll also be changing the front tyre, which will be a good time to check how true the wheel is. 3mm seems quite a lot. Looks like the forks may be the problem if they're not usually stiff. Mine are definitely stiff. The previous owner replaced one stanchion, the left, as it was bent. So I'm now suspicious of the right hand one. I'll check that with the wheel off.

Bryanj:
When checking the wheel for true make sure you can easily see where the weld is as you will always get a "kick" in the rim at that point and drive yourself crazy trying to remove it.
You can easily get them closer than 3mm, that only the max allowed

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