Partially Restored 74 CB550

[davidcumbria]

Starting a thread on my bike. Im in no rush and need to delay spending until its needed for that stage of the rebuild. Bike has been repainted and has lots of new cables, refurbished clocks, new spokes etc. It had just been 'sympathetically' restored but I wanted the engine to look brighter as I feel that is the centrepiece. Decision to strip engine taken out of my hands when it dropped a shifter fork due to incorrect replacement of the fork shaft retainer. Was thinking originally to fit an aftermarket 4/4 exhaust but seeing how low the prices are for fully restored bikes am certainly reigning back my spending plans. Im not looking to make a profit but having paid 3K for the bike and being personally happy to enjoy using a non mint restoration for a few years I am weighing up the restoration spend carefully to not to spend money that actually wont actually  be appreciated by the eventual owner.

 I'm chewing over what to do with the cases but present thinking is paint strip and repaint with perhaps a vapour blast of the barrels and head only.

 have managed to buy a later gen rocker cover with secured rocker shafts. The oil restrictors were blocked with sealant from the rebuild and there was barely any oil making it up to the top end. Also managed to get some headlamp ears from USA that will be suitable for rechroming unlike my dented ones.

I have stripped the frame completely which was a lovely easy job due to the recent rebuild. Going to send off the frame/ swingarm  for powder coating gloss black and need advice re the centrestand, side stand, footpeg mounts and steering yokes. Should these be satin black powder coated to look original or the same gloss black as the frame ?

Thanks in advance for all helpful advice that is typical on this site. I will try to use search and link in previous advice for others viewing this thread when useful.

all the best

David

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Have you split the crank case yet?
My priority would be checking crankshaft, crank bearings, primary drive system, gearbox bearings, oil pump, cam chain tensioner & pistons. 
The cost of ensuring the engine unit is A1 would then impact on choices such as new paintwork & exhaust & casing cosmetics.

I view a project overspend as normal depreciation - hopefully a one off cost in year 2 for accounting purposes. Alternatively just forget the over run. 

I'm stating the obvious, like you I am conscious that fettling  costs can easily out run end value. Money spent on the heart of the bike is money well spent. Do it once do it right.

[davidcumbria]

Thanks yes I’ve had a look at the internals. Going to need all new main and big end shells, primary chain and dampers. Gearbox oil pump cam chain etc  all ok. Measured up crankshaft, pistons and bores and all good. Yes I’m definitely going to sort the engine as a spending priority and for my own sense of wanting to do it right.

[davidcumbria]

Anyone got any thoughts on the powder coating? Thanks guys.

[Oddjob]

General consensus is that main stand and footrests are the same gloss black as the frame, yokes tend to be done satin black. Oddly the passenger footrest only have the frame clamp done in black, the peg with the rubber on is normally zinc plated silver. I do them both as I find the zinc goes dull after a year or so but your choice.

[Bryanj]

Primary chain fit Kawasaki, half the price, dampers have gone up in price a lot, shells sit down before you price them, main oil pump O ring kit from nurse julie and carb O ring kit.
Other stuff ask on here, may be worth putting up pics of shells before condeming them!

[davidcumbria]

Thanks Ken now I know what I’m doing re powder coating. The lower yoke seems integral with the steering column so I’m not sure this can be easily powder coated ? Reckon spraying may be ok here ?

Shells have already been condemned as toast on on here so I’m going to have to grin and bear it.
https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,29088.msg277269.html#msg277269

Good tip re Kawasaki primary chain Bryan

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/kawasaki-parts/920571011?currency=GBP&withvat=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZvMhMah7gIVyrTtCh39NQiJEAQYASABEgIWtPD_BwE

[Laverda Dave]

The lower yoke can be powder coated without any issues. The powder coater will mask off the column, just make sure you tell them. Use a company used to powder coating motorcycle frames and not a bog standard industrial powder coating company.
Make sure you ask them to powder coat the frame on the same day as it has been blasted otherwise the frame will have a coating of rust between blasting and powder coating and this can result in the powder coat debonding over time. Likely to be more expensive but worth it

[davidcumbria]

Thinking ahead to the rebuild what’s the deal with cam chain ? I plan to to put crankcases together with engine upside down to avoid the difficulties with selector forks and bearing pins. Will the cam chain stay on the crankshaft teeth during the rebuild or do I have to find a way to keep it tensioned, including refitting the barrels,  so it doesn’t drop off the crank and get all messed up?

[Bryanj]

It may or may not drop off but easy to get back on as well

[K2-K6]

As above, it's no real problem, but dont whatever you do turn the crankshaft with the camchain down in there bunched up 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thinking ahead to the rebuild what’s the deal with cam chain ? I plan to to put crankcases together with engine upside down to avoid the difficulties with selector forks and bearing pins. Will the cam chain stay on the crankshaft teeth during the rebuild or do I have to find a way to keep it tensioned, including refitting the barrels,  so it doesn’t drop off the crank and get all messed up?

When I was rebuilding my 400 I made a simple wooden support made from offcuts to hold the top case upside down. The first picture was taken before I added an extra shaft of wood. The case was supported either side od the face where the studs fit - I used a short length of left over plastic drain pipe to act like the camshaft as it rested on the head studs.

Its lighter/easier  to fit the engine into the frame before you fit the block & head.


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casings before stripping paint by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

.Top casing bolts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
51215030361_81a76ec82e_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

51387518187_e6193f7eeb_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
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51388278441_de81522bcd_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

I just used to drop the chain down onto the crank and fish it out when needed, as the chain is oily right out of the box, having it exposed just allows dust and crap to stick to it, keep it hidden and move it when you need to and not otherwise.

Teds engine BTW never ran on number 1 cylinder very well, that's because he wrote the number 1 backwards in relation to the others, rookie mistake. 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I blame Grahame as 1 & 4 were written on one way 2 & 3 the other when he honed the pistons or whatever magic is done after a rebore - took me ages to be sure I had not got two pistons back to front.

[Johnny4428]

Either forward or backward thinking?🤪🤪