SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Partially Restored 74 CB550
Johnny4428:
I hadn’t read that post before David. Some very interesting and helpful information there.
deltarider:
I have kept count. So far no CB500/550 owner has reported an improvement by cutting coils of the advancer springs to cure that flat spot and one owner even reported the opposite when his full advance was reached at a higher rpm than what Honda had designed as standard.
Although I have asked for proof and/or substantiation from the OP, I never got it.
Personally I fail to understand how it can ever be benifical for the advance and driveability. Whenever I open my throttle from idle, full advance is reached within a tenth of a second.
A positive effect has been reported by a Swede, but that concerns a CB750. This is all we know so far.
Real tests are welcome ofcourse.
K2-K6:
I'm skeptical too about the detail within that list of modification.
Some directly contradict each other, the settings of timing do offer evidence to show why it's not the panacea that's projected.
The discussion is though much more linked to the one on here about camshaft modification for these engine and likely more productive to discuss it there rather than derail this bike build thread.
davidcumbria:
Update on work since last post.
With good help from Ted I managed to get all connections made and all electrics working after a bit of playing around with indicators not flashing etc.
Went for the first start and to my dismay petrol started pouring out of the plenum drain even though I had tested float height and valve seating on all carbs during the rebuild. After tapping the float bowls it settled down. I reckon the floats somehow got stuck and due to having a high mounted aux tank head and flow of fuel overwhelmed their efforts to seal and the overflow pipes capacity to vent.
After a lot of spinning the engine did start, puffed out a lot of smoke but finally was running on all 4, idling smoothly and picking up ok. No fuel dripping. Best of all the engine much quieterso seems like the new primary chain, cam tensioner and valve cover have done their job. Will provide a link to a video when I can figure out how to do that.
My restart attempts came to a sudden halt when all electric power lost and the main fuse blew. No problems at all with fusing during the electrical reassembly. I traced the problem to problems inside the aftermarket right switch gear.
That has turned into a two day saga of stripping and trying to rebuild the switchgear. Basic problem is that the soldered terminal for the power supply to the start switch when assembled has a tiny clearance of about 0.5mm from the handle bar. The switch gear doesn’t have a handlebar location peg so when moving slightly under throttle turning it could make a dead short with the handle bar. Bang goes the main fuse for which the po had fitted 50A - bit of a smoking gun I think with the emphasis on smoking ! I also discovered the kill switch was working intermittently. Don’t know if it had been dismantled previously but there may be questions of the internal quality of these vs oem.
Rebuilding the switchgear while not wanting to pull the cable through has turned into a nightmare of inaccessible c clips, lost or missing detent ball bearings, new failures in soldered joints due to all the disturbance, and the final straw a spring pinging out to god knows where. 10 hours wasted effort so I’ve given up and bad temperedly ordered a new one. Best advice would be to not even try to do this without pulling it all through - hindsight a wonderful thing. Need a couple of days off now to recuperate. But the good news is it runs and with new switchgear in place I won’t be forever worrying about what reliability issues I may have left in there.
Oddjob:
The new switchgear a copy or an original Honda one?
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