SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Partially Restored 74 CB550
davidcumbria:
Thanks Ted I’ll give him a try. They are described as safety or security straps in one write up.makes sense to keep dust out of that ball joint Ken. I wonder if they are also intended to act as retainer in case the arm tries to jump off when you hit a bump when riding. Not surprising these flimsy little parts are struggling at 50 years old….
Oddjob:
No, it's just a dust seal, if you look closely you can see they are shaped to match the openings in the throttle linkage, they break so easily they'd never withstand the force that would be exerted if the linkage ever comes apart, which it wouldn't as they are all sprung loaded, so bumps etc wouldn't bother them in the least. The hole which goes over the ball joint is just to hang it off so it stays in place and it's normally where they break as it's so flimsy.
davidcumbria:
Thinking ahead I’m a bit confused about fitting the primary shaft through the starter clutch etc once the cases have been assembled upside down and bolted together. The u tube video I purchased shows the American guy thoroughly heating the case next to the right hand bearing then just simply pushing the shaft and bearing home together but the video is unclear at this point. He has fitted a new primary chain. On here it is suggested to prise the primary shaft into place through the sump opening. Is the rh bearing fitted before after or during that ?
Ps had a minor success today pressing the lower shock bushes out of the swing arm. Rusted in for 50 years but came out nicely using two sockets in a vice. Pretty sure the heating with my mapp torch helped a lot. Others have had to hacksaw them out so I’m feeling a bit smug. Replacements are available for reasonable cost so new rubber will be good especially after the heating. Off to pick up the frame from the powder coaters tomorrow and check out ceramic coating of the engine with a local supplier.
Oddjob:
Depends on what you mean by the R/H bearing, you mean clutch side?
If so then the American fella is just being a prat, really, some people just overthink things, never needed to heat the engine casing up to knock that bearing into place. fit the bearing on the oil pump side but remove the oil pump, as you slide the shaft through you can see which way the shaft needs to be moved in order for it to slide into place. With a new primary chain and more importantly new primary cush rubbers you'll find the shaft doesn't really want to go in as there isn't enough slack in the chain to allow it, that's when you need to lever the shaft backwards in order for it to line up. Just protect the crankcase as you lever against it, doesn't need a huge amount of force TBH.
Shock rubbers, heat is ok but if the paints good it's not ideal. Use a drill and just drill out the rubber surround, that lets the middle drop out, then a hacksaw blade just cutting through the shell of the damping rubber is enough for it to collapse and fall out. Saem process kind of with the swinging arm bearings, especially if they are the steel kind which the 550 aren't.
davidcumbria:
Thanks Ken. Yes I did mean the clutch side bearing. Video American had not fitted new Cush drive rubbers ( I will) so possibly he didn’t need to lever. When do you knock the clutch side bearing in - after levering and locating the shaft in the oil pump side?
I’m having the swing arm the powder coated ( mainly why I wanted the bushes out ) so no worries about the heat on paint.
Got to decide whether to get bottom cases vapour blasted today. Only reason is to prepare the small proportion of visible outer surfaces for paint/ ceramic prep. Have heard that media gets embedded then releases when engine hot. Doesn’t seem like a worthwhile risk , though others have had it done without problems. 2 months I’ve been vacillating !
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