SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Partially Restored 74 CB550
Oddjob:
Check the bottom of the camchain tensioner is located in the slot in the lower crankcase whilst it's like that. After, push the tensioner blade in by hand until it won't go any further and lock it off with the locknut.
Missing the dowel in the clutch case opening near the primary shaft gear. Needs to be there for the gasket to locate properly. Should be 2 of them in total.
davidcumbria:
Will do Ken. Have got the dowel bagged for refitting and was meticulous in seeing the the tensioner and guide were correctly located using the good advice on here. I’m a bit disappointed by the stiffness of the new cms aftermarket tensioner . It seems weaker than the banana shaped original I replaced due to cracks forming near the location lugs.
Oddjob:
I thought the same when I compared a DS one with a new original
davidcumbria:
So I wasn’t being completely daft fitting the restrictors upside down since that’s how they were when I stripped the engine.per an earlier question Now I know why they were so difficult to remove - because they had been pressed in when tightening cylinder head down.
When I lifted the barrels slightly and replaced the restrictors in the corrrct orientation to my dismay the barrels still wouldn’t seat on them. Barrels off revealed the in correct fitmen had scuffed up the drillings in the barrel restricting the width. .
Got barrels on my pillar drill and removed the galling, cleaned up meticulously, and finally the barrels slid down into place correctly.
The blockage of the restrictors by sealant was also responsible for the dry top end when I first ran the bike. All in all I feel these little things are having a vendetta with me. At least having had the barrels on and off about 4 times. I’m getting good at it !
davidcumbria:
So engine out , stripped, repainted, rebuilt, back in frame and it’s only at this point I notice that the upper bolt securing the starter motor to the upper case has been snapped off flush with case. Bolt is near horizontal and joint is exposed to weather so no surprise it got rusted in and sheared sometime in last 50years.Skinny bolt with long free run from the head to where it secures in the case. Starter is still secured by one bolt and the casing collar and was working ok but I need to at least try to get remains of bolt out for my own acceptable quality level.
I have bought a stud removal kit with left hand drills and extractors. Can’t heat the area as much as I would like due to new paint. Anyone had experience of dealing with same issue ? Hopefully easier than a sheared stud since it shouldn’t be bottomed out in the thread hole.
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