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Instrument brackets UK v USA on a 500?
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I'm behaving myself fiddling indoors admiring my nicely restored clocks (Kent400) ready for eventually mounting them on the flat plate.
First observation is that the clocks do not sit deep in a bowl like on the 400 but in a shallower SS surround that looking underneath is quite open to the elements.
My clocks have one bulb to the Tacho & one bulb to the Spedo being a UK model in original form. Mounting plate is 37211-323-000 in the parts book the US model uses 37211-323-671 presumably this is to angle the clocks for the US larger dials?
Is it possible to fit the US mounting plate using the UK clocks, is this likely to result in easier water ingress to the rear of the clocks?
Bryanj:
Ted, the US K1 had small clocks with full chrome backs and angled input bosses (instead of straight) so using the US bracket may well cause problems with cable angles unless US clocks are used as well.
Those open backs are still chromed steel as far as i know.
I do have some US clocks complete and nos speedo plus tacho to go with them, could probably work out a px if you are interested
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Thanks Ken I'll stick with what I have then.
Might look at improving the underside protection as it looks so open somehow. Then again there is a danger of trapping rain water.. making it worse.
Oddjob:
I get mentioned without even saying anything ;D ;D ;D
Bowls are chromed steel Ted, they do rust I'm afraid. You can however paint the inside of the bowl with zinc paint or any anti rust alternative, you can't see it so why not, make sure the mounting rubber is fitted correctly as well, if it's in the wrong place it can block the drain hole in the bottom edge.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
You are right Ken they are very magnetic so steel based with an odd almost Matt Chrome finish. Mine are in excellent rust free condition so have just given them a quick polish to an acceptable finish. Regarding the rubber mounting either way up the drain hole is blocked by the rubber. I have fitted them so that the cut out sections that are less than 180 degrees match the rear cut out angle.
Hope this is correct - the thicker profile sits near the single plate mounting bolt. Is it worth a hot needle through the drain hole?
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