SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750

Head Bolts

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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
This series was my mentor on the 400 - some gaps in detail but was a real help.
I switched on the captions and would pause at what seemed like complicated stuff.
When unsure I would post pics & ask here - yes some jokes but the feedback from a handful of members was invaluable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQgwhv8v6Os

Laverda Dave:
Go for it, you will be suprised how easy it all is once the engine is out. I would rather work on a Honda than my Triumph twin any day :D

Martin6:
Wow! Pretty unanimous that I should give it a go. It's definitely daunting. At the moment I'm getting over my disappointment.

I guess, running it, I have the risk that if the head is not warped, it could warp over time. It runs sweet enough now. It's not using oil, just a couple of drips onto the floor off the front left fin, when on the sidestand after a run. That's what alerted me. I've since noticed a slight film on the engine cases, now im looking for it. But not bad.

I guess in part it's confidence. Am I skilled enough to measure all the tolerances (bearing shells, valves etc.)? What do I do if the head is warped? Am I capable of removing and replacing the key bearings? Will I know what a worn gearbox looks like... etc. Oh, and the hardest one, how do I explain it to my wife  ;D

Then there's the list of expensive bits I might find. Plus the bits I should change as I'm in there and 40,000 miles may not be the end of life, but I don't want to go back in there shortly after. Things like I guess, I should change the cam and primary chains after 40,000 miles, probably everything rubber, like the tensioners, valve seals?... As I say, a bit daunting. Then there's special tools. Engine stand at the least. I'm guessing, but parts alone could easily be over £1,000?  :-\

Feels like a big decision.

Nurse Julie:
Enjoy it for the summer and thick about it again once the dark nights roll in. Trigger has tons of experience on 750K engines and i will add them up one day but it runs in to hundreds. There is thing that the manual's do not tell you about these old engines and how to seal them correctly.   

Bryanj:
All the ones i built in dealers were done on the bench, no stand.
You need a clutch nut special tongued socket, but if its ever been off bet it was butchered with hammer and punch.
You need an alternator rotor puller, which is a bolt with the correct thread.
Main and big ends you can normally say if they look good they are but you can use plastigauge to check.
You do need a decent torque wrench, preferably 3/8 drive as there are plase 1/2 inch drive sockets wont fit.
Hondabond and graphogen will probably be the most expensive non honda part.
Yes all rubber bits, they have been getting rock hard for decades.

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