Regulator unit

[fogrider]

My CB550f cooked its battery. Checked the voltage and stopped the engine when it got to 17v. Bought a new 4 wire reg/rec, exactly same as orig, still over volts. It seems what appears to be a reg/rec is only a rectifier, I've now found the regulator is separate.
David Silver show a combined unit (£70 odd + p+p )  and don't list that separate regulator. 

Question is- is there a modern 5 wire reg/rec that will do the job ?, there are some on ebay for less than £20 which are the same as some outfits are selling for £40 plus. Or would that result in some wiring complications ?

Your advice will be welcome to decide which way forward.

Regards all....

[fogrider]

Finally cottoned on that the regulator is mechanical.  Looked good inside but both settings were out, re-set and will run her up tomorrow.   
Fingers crossed !

[Bryanj]

You cant set the regulator cold and static, has to be warm and when running, usually done with a variable supply box

[deltarider]

[...] usually done with a variable supply box

Could you clarify what you mean by that? Sorry for asking; my English is not sufficient.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

It's not your English I don't know what Bryan means either!

[K2-K6]

Stabilised "bench" power supply, one that you can just dial a target voltage as reference to test, set equipment with.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If your charging system is essentially the same as a 400 I have an excellent set of instructions on adjusting the regulator from my Cycleserve manual - see below it worked for me on my 400.

Clicking on the photos makes them more legible.

P75 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

P76 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

P77 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

P78 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[deltarider]

Dunno if that set of instructions is so "excellent". There's no need to disconnect the rectifier plug, when you connect the battery to a charger. In my experience the OEM rectifier and regulator hardly ever fail or need readjustment. As usual Clymer presents this unbalanced, which amateurs interpret as an opportunity to use there DMMs and then misinterpretations are on the horizon...

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Shooting the messenger again?

Depending on your charger disconnecting the battery back in the period when these manuals were published was good advice - no smart chargers in the 1970s.

[Bryanj]

Yes a box on the bench where you can alter the voltage and preferably with a load on the regulator like field coil.
As the regulator works the coils and resistor warm up under load and the setting points vary, the manual is a good start point, its like bench syncing carbs then using gauges.
I used to have a bench supply but the smoke leaked out and electrons dont go anywhere anymore.
Remember if i answer in the evening i am on a break at work and dont have a lot of time, just woke up now!

[fogrider]

I re-set the gaps as stated in the Haynes manual (all I've got ).  Cold.  I tested it, made adjustments bit by bit and it now complies ( fairly well ) with the settings Haynes describe. Good enough for now, but I would like one of the combined units  said to replace the 2 items.
Not sure which one or if there are wiring issues.
At least I'm rolling again and not destroying another battery.
Thanks all....

[Bryanj]

Stick with what you have, the combined units have a high failure rate and really dont like bad connectors, voltage spikes and reverse connections.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Personally I would stick with the original arrangement that Honda designed it seems to work pretty well. Only time I can see the need to change it is if you are going away from lead/acid type batteries.

[deltarider]

Personally I would stick with the original arrangement that Honda designed it seems to work pretty well. Only time I can see the need to change it is if you are going away from lead/acid type batteries.

Just abstain from gel batteries. Some can become damaged when voltage gets over 14,3 V. AGM should be no problem, but to enjoy its full potential, they have to be charged at 14,8 V, which leads to the alternator having to work harder, which in theory results in less performance and a somewhat higher fuel consumption.
My standard Yuasa is 6¹/₂ years old now and still works fine. Your choice.
You also may to read this: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,29092.msg277766.html#msg277766

[fogrider]

Thanks for the above, I shall stick with the good old mechanical regulator. Interesting note about 14.8v to charge AGM batteries.
My Optimate never really got it to the expected 12.7 / 13v limit but a charge on my ancient constant current charger at around 14.7v it came up to 12.9 and has stayed recovered.
You live and learn !