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Rust removers...

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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Brick Acid is essentially Sulphuric Acid (aka Muriatic acid) so it will be quick but then it will also eat into good steel depending on the contact time.

Amendment:  should read Hydrochloric Acid.

The beauty of Evaporust is it works by only attacking the chemical bond between Iron & Iron Oxide - hence why you get a brown sediment when it has worked - it effectively just makes the rust separate from the good steel - hence the periodic need for a light brushing - on delicate items I use an old tooth brush.

I have left old parts that were beyond recovery in Evaporust for months - it eventually comes out clean but rough where the iron is missing. As the old fluid gets darker I decanter off the sediment and store it in a tin of used fluid. I re-use old fluid several times before it becomes spent. It is safe to wash down the drain under a running tap.

I have found with items such as a long engine mounting bolts that are plated that where the rust has gone through the plating the Evaporust will remove all the iron oxide (aka rust) - As most of the bolt is hidden  (I do not have a plating kit) I coat the bare metal parts using Bluing Solution so I have a passivated repair - wash off and the spray paint silver. (Bluing solution requires very clean grease free steel it works as you brush the item with the solution turning gun metal blue in under two minutes - you must never dip the brush into you bottle - always pour some into a small glass container and load the brush from that)

Bluing is Phosphoric Acid based so I wear eye protection & gloves you dilute the new Bluing solution with water as per the instructions one part solution / 3 parts water iirc.

I have found Vinegar white or brown only good with Copper/Brass - it cleans up old Pennies a treat as well as electrical components. I have never tried Citric Acid but I do use Lemon Juice to clean mould from my Hot Tub cover.

Matt_Harrington:
As Roo says, its good BUT do it outside and don't leave an open container / bowl of it near your pride and joy - it will rust in no time!
The advantage of Evaporust is it is not caustic and so it you can dip your hand in it - unlike Brick cleaner (Hydrochloric acid). So cleaning the inside of a petrol tank, it is better to use the former rather than the acid!
Oxalic Acid is pretty cheap and works well. You buy it in powder form and mix up as required. I told a mate of mine to try it on a rusty chain he had and he was impressed with the results

Matt_Harrington:
Ted, its Hydrochloric not Sulphuric....

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
My error you are right its HCL not H2SO4 but still very corrosive.

Well spotted Matt.

Mr Google says
Metals such as aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, and titanium will suffer rapid attack from HCl at all concentrations and temperatures. Most stainless steel grades will be subject to attack, because their chromium content is not sufficient in forming a protective passive layer.


Matt_Harrington:

--- Quote from: JamesH on July 09, 2023, 10:29:06 PM ---Bilthamber Deox-C is a great product.

Bilt Hamber Deox C Concentrated Rust Remover (1000g) https://amzn.eu/d/bndF2MG

--- End quote ---

James, I've not tried this but heard good results. What dilution do you use?

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