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My New Project arrives after a 44 year wait!

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Laverdaroo:
See, told yer


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Bryanj:
Shaft is a paperweight, bearing same so gear probably.
You will probably find it easier to get a complete box or bottom end unless Julie has parts in her inventory.
Looks like insufficient oil changes and missalignment, you should build these motors in the top half to get the pegs and half clips aligned properly

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Dave,
If it's a 400 I have a full set of gears & shafts out of a spare crankcase - they are not expensive if you need them. PM me for details if they are of interest to you. Ted

PS I also have the crankcase & crankshaft. I bought the part engine/box during lock down from a member. It was  iirc stripped for  the primary drive shaft & associated bits.

Laverda Dave:
Time for an update with happenings in the shed on the rat bike.

The carbs have now finally come up clean after four trips each into the ultrasonic cleaner at 30 minutes a time. I was able to scrape the varnish residue off after the third attempt with a final clean to follow. I have used a full bottle of Allendale carb cleaner in the process.
The float hinges were so corroded into the retaining posts despite following three cleans and the application of careful heating to avoid melting the plastic floats I had no choice but to drive them out with a very small drift and pliars. I bought some 2mm brass rod to make four new hinge pins and used the lathe to rub it down to the correct disameter. I placed all the brassware into clock cleaning fluid for a couple of hours followed by the ultrasonic bath (thank you for the tip Mr Millyard ;)). Two of the pilot jets ap[pear to be moth eaten and I will replace these and one of the needles from my spares stash.

On to chrome plating, I finally found a plater in the London area! They are called Ashford Chrome Plating and are located in Crayford, SE London and they are very professional from the tour of the workshop they gave me when I went to have a look last week. They have their own repair facility where I saw a bumper that was full of holes being patched, panel beaten and polished prior to plating. I cleaned up my parts ready for plating. The inside of the points cover was thick with black paint so I used the multi coloured polishing wheels reccomended by Ken to strip it off, they are fantastic bits of kit, well worth buying :). I also used these on the kickstart knuckle as the knuckle is a really rough chrome plated casting and looks terrible, I dont know why Honda fitted such a rough finished part in an area where it could be seen. After a couple of hours with various files and the polishing wheels it was ready to take to the chrome plater. I managed to seperate the rear light following a great tip from Ash of how to do it.
When I took the parts to be plated they didn't like the look of the brazed repairs to the rear mudguard, I spent hours on this rubbing it down but it wasn't to their standard so they are going to have another go at it ???. They said they will send me photographic updates of the parts as they travel through the workshop. Whilst I was there I noticed various parts of another 400/4 going through the plating process and they looked really good so hopefully my parts will look the same.

I have nearly finished polishing the carb tops and bowls ready to rebuild them. The powder coater has called and my frame is ready to collect. Hopefully all the vapour blasting will be ready to collect next week and I will be able to mount the carbs on the vapour blasted rail along with the new S/S carb spindle Max has made for me. Still awaiting for the return of the fork stanchions from Philpotts, its been a long wait so far.

Engine wise, I have bought a good set of gear shafts from Ted after mine were found to be beyond trying to save due to damage on the shafts. The vapour blasted barrels and head are now with NJ & Graham for a rebore and checking for bent valves and worn guides.

Spares, I am unable to avoid it any longer, I will have to place an order to DSS, more wallet bashing :-\

Oddjob:
Try using the white wheels on the brassware Dave, it's about the same grit grade as pumice stone, around 2000 grit IIRC, they'll come up like new without damaging them at all. The carb tops try using something like light blue or purple and it will get rid of the scratching on them, if the scratches don't go easily try red or brown but not dark blue or dark green unless it's really really bad. After the scratches go try going up the grades ending with light green, by that time they'll look almost polished. Dark green or drak blue will even remove weld splatters and will work quite well to smooth out the kickstart knuckle, the more you use them the more you'll wonder how you ever did without them.

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