My New Project arrives after a 44 year wait!

[Laverda Dave]

I did look at that potential solution Nigel when I first had trouble trying to find another lower yoke. I was put off the idea as I don't have a welder and I really would not trust my welding on a steering stem but maybe if I ever get around to building that special I keep promising myself I would do then yes, that is something I would probabaly have to do although even then I would trust it to somebody who was good with a welder!
As for the centre nut, I'm just going to do it up tight, I really dont trust a fiqure of 57LB (min) on two fine threads.

Ted, I don't use steeering locks either, they are just for show in my opinion and they stick and are fiddly to reach

[AshimotoK0]

Dave I checked quite a few Honda's and they all seem to have that high quoted torque figure in the associated Shop Manuals.

I suspect your stem from Steve is from another market where they don't use the Nieman lock and the steering lock is part of the ignition switch (i.e. the ignition switch with a lock where the steel blanking plate is on UK models.)

Poor copy of fiche below. 

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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

There are not that many threads at the best of time but two seems a bit minimalist - my 400 has a pretty thick chromed washer,  would a thinner washer give you an extra thread?
You have probably done that already.

As I have no machining facilities I found out that JCB bucket shims fit the bottom yoke perfectly so I bought a selection thickness pack from ebay.

I am confused as to why you have so few threads - why does the top yoke not go a bit furter down?

I've always thought shortage of threads was with the top race nut not the top yoke nut.

Update
I ended up fitting a plain caged ball bearing on my 400 as the taper unit was clearly too tall for the adjuster fitting. The full BR kit fitted my 500 without issue.

[Laverda Dave]

Strangely Ash the stem without the lock cut out is the original although there is a steering lock fitted to the headstock! I asked the PO a few weeks ago if he had previously replaced the forks following his accident and he said he did. I do wonder if the both lower and top yokes were also replaced, he said they weren’t but Honda would not fit a yoke without a lock cut out but fit a steering lock in the headstock! The plot thickens when the ‘original’ lower yoke is placed side by side with the replacement I bought from Steve. The ‘original’ is thicker by about 2mm although the stem is same overall length at 218mm. If the yokes were replaced that would indicate the bike took a bit of a thump, I’m so glad I had the frame checked for alignment as I always do when restoring a bike and it was found to be 100%, the first frame I have ever had that was completely true and didn’t require a tweek. I had the frame checked even though there was no paint flaking or other markings around the headstock to indicate any damage and the frame paint was the original.

Everything is now back together and I torque set the centre nut up to 45lb in incremental stages starting at 20lb, at 45lb I thought this was enough, it was really tight and it took an effort to brace the wheel whilst I was torque setting the nut, it’s not going to move for sure and tempting as it was to go to 57lb I thought better of it! I’ll see how it feels when I take it on the road. Ted raised an interesting point about the thickness of the washer and it is thick, if it was 1mm thinner I could get another turn on the nut for sure. I bought a new genuine nut from a guy on ebay and he threw in the washer as well as mine was now partially stripped, the new nut is thicker than the ‘original’ as well!

I’m back out in the garage today now the enthusiasm has returned 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When assembling my 400 before I decided to fit a caged top ball race in the top I did consider a thin washer in SS. Iirc I drew a blank at the time plus I want to progress.🏍️

[Laverda Dave]

Some good progress over the past few days (and excluding the problem with trying to paint the seat logo!).

The new yoke is now fitted along with the taper lower and ball race top hybrid combination. I took the torque setting up to 45lb and that was enough! The wheel, mudguard, brake caliper etc is now all back in along with the fantastic clocks refurbished by Peter Houghton to his usual very high standard.

I have fitted LED’s all round, including green LED to the back of the gauges and boy are they bright! I had to run separate earth’s from the front indicators to get them to work but this wasn’t a problem as the new loom had a couple of spare earth connections.  I have refitted the Cibie but had to make a repair to the very strange copper connector for the dip beam after finding the cable was non-existent. I made a new crimped connection using a piece of steel from the scrap bin, not very neat but strong and the cable is firmly held.

90% of the electrics are now complete with just the Boyer to fit along with the plug caps to the new refurbished coils from Ash (thanks again Ash).  I have a bit more tidying up to do such as fitting the correct tensioner bolt and a few other odd’s and sod’s but I think I’m 90% there now.

I’m still not sure about the correct finish of the cover on  the clutch cable adjusting mechanism, should it be a painted finish to match the rest of the engine or should it be polished alloy as I have seen on other 400/4’s (and as I currently have it finished), if anybody knows could you let me know!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Mine was painted and looked unmolested.

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks Ted, looks like I have the answer 👍

[AshimotoK0]

I go by these pics Dave of the 'push mile' bike that was auctioned. OK I reckon it was messed with in places but it's a decent guide and all I really have to go on.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/97pm41rmojmibgw6skkvy/ACXWZLnqMn-MFflx_Dz5ck8?rlkey=jdxgrox5jjs2z8p6jnh5rayv5&st=evzneor3&dl=0

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks Ash. I did look at those and that's where the potential confusion set it. The feature of the three 400/4’s in the recent CBG that were either 'original' or restored to original show the quadrant as being polished. I'm sticking with the painted finish as that's how I remember my first 400/4 back in 1980.
That photo of the push 400 reminds me I need to order the wire clip on the clutch housing 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Looks like those photos were taken in December 2021 Ash - what did it sell for?

[TrickyMicky]

Looks like those photos were taken in December 2021 Ash - what did it sell for?

  If you're interested Ted, there's another one on Fleabay that's worth following. Read the text and study the photos carefully, rear wiring looks a bit untidy. Mileage possibly correct as it's still wearing the original Sensitol lubricated tyres fitted by Honda.

[AshimotoK0]

Looks like those photos were taken in December 2021 Ash - what did it sell for?

Sit down and don't faint with shock Ted 

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[Mikep328]

That price is not surprising if you follow vehicle auctions.  Any old car/bike with nearly no miles will sell for an insane price.  The problem is - you can't ride/drive it if you want to retain the value.  So for a collector putting on display, it's "worth" the money.  For someone who wants to use it, it's insane to buy it.

[Johnny4428]

Nice progress on the 400 Dave. Going to be a nice bike.