SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
My New Project arrives after a 44 year wait!
Laverda Dave:
Thanks for the replies.
Sesman,
I will re-check the valve clearances tomorrow. The valve timing was spot on when I rebuilt the engine but if all else fails I will check it again.
I couldn't get any NGK plugs so used ND X22ES-U as advised, I might try and get the correct NGK's from HGB tomorrow and try these although the ND's are producing a fat spark.
The fuel is running fine to the carbs, I don't have an inline filter fitted I am using the Honda filter in the fuel tank. I did fit a new Honda filter gauze when I overhauled the fuel tap.
The carbs have been cleaned, cleaned and cleaned again every time in an ultrasonic bath with new fluid every time. All the internal jetways have been gone through with carb cleaner until evidence was they were clear (I used a whole can!).
Nigel,
Attached are the instructions that came with the Boyer kit, it is a micro digital kit (kit 089).
I followed the instructions to the letter and have checked it countless times but maybe I have misread them especially if you had trouble previously reading them as well! I have to say they are not exactly clear when you look at the specific words when it comes to diagram 2 and how the backplate should be set after fixing the magnetic rotor into position.
The really puzzling thing for me though is the way the engine just suddenly stops dead, it is as though the electrical supply to the ignition box has been cut but then the engine will start up straight away but not rev beyond 1500rpm. The ignition box does get very slightly warm but I put this down to it actually working to supply the power to the coils.
Bryanj:
Clutching at straws but is it possible you have slides in wrong carbs, it can be done and when done they are backwards, can you do a compression test and/or leakdown as i hate to say it might have bad rings/compression, has a rodent built a nest in the exhaust.
These are all extremely rare but very ocasionally seen things and you did say clutching at straws!
K2-K6:
OK, trawling memory from that setup, there was delicious home made cake and cups of tea involved ;D
The instruction item #18 seems wrongly advised with regards to crank position. We looked at it numerous times and set as you have Dave, but no dice and similar result.
It also didn't play out in final timing as the adjustment slots were insufficient to get advance, if you could keep it running.
What we ended up with was positioning the crank static point at either F or full advance (just can't recall which) then using the instructions complete other than that detail.
Think you can put the plate in end of slot adjustment positioning (as diagram) if you use the F mark to set crank, or place the slots with screws centre point if you used the full advanced positioning as start point.
Those two don't matter too much as you'll ultimately check it at full advance in final set up. They'll give you roughly the same final positioning for slot and screw whichever way you start. They'll effectively converge to give that effect when timed correctly.
Hopefully that makes some sort of sense :)
K2-K6:
Forgot to note, they just appear to direct you to start off far too far retarded from their diagram etc.
Even if you keep it running, you'll just run out of slot to spin the timing plate when you try to correct at max advance check.
I don’t particulately like going against finite instructions, but just couldn't see it working as noted, it just doesn't check out correctly.
Laverda Dave:
Thanks Bryan and Nigel.
I'll try these ideas tomorrow and report back👍.
Dave
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