SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
My New Project arrives after a 44 year wait!
Nurse Julie:
Put an extender on the rattle gun with the socket on the end Dave.
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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I have found the longer the extension bar the better my cordless impact driver seems to work - I call it the torque stick effect!
Laverda Dave:
Well they are finally apart :). I paid £1.99 for a broom handle, pushed it in with a bit of force and hey presto the cap head bolt came undone, happy days ;D.
Thanks for the tips, I was genuinely stuck with what to do next.
Laverda Dave:
I have made some progress with the bike over the past week. On Monday I dropped the frame in to Hybrid Motorcycles in Sarratt for a frame alignment check. In order to undertake a proper check I had to refit the swing arm, shocks, rear wheel and the upper and lower crankcase. It should take 3-4 weeks as he’s busy.
I dropped the sump off at SRS in Sutton yesterday to have a 12mm timesert fitted into the stripped oil drain plug. The cost of £25 to fit is a lot cheaper than buying a timesert kit at £90! After Sutton it was off to Banstead (on the bus and train!) to SWS to collect the lower crankcase following the welding up of the crack close to the main oil gallery and oil filter. The welder has done a good job although I will dress the weld to blend it in to the surrounding alloy prior to vapour blasting and painting.
Today I assembled the crank into the crankcases with some green plastigauge to measure the shell clearances. This wasn’t good news! I already knew No.3 main bearing shells were scuffed due to a piece of grit finding its way in there and I polished the journal using 3000 and 5000 grit paper on Bryan’s advice. Whilst the other bearing shells don’t have scuffs they appear to be pretty worn, I attach a couple of photos of the plastigauge reading on No.5 journal and No.3 journal (the scuffed one). The readings on all the journals were above the maximum plastigauge indicator of 0.175 so they will all be replaced. And if I’m replacing the main bearings the con rod bearings also appear to be equally worn and will also be replaced.
In terms of the bearings I need the crank codes (working from No.1 to 5) are: 1A, 1A, 2A, 2A, 2. The case code is AABBB. So, having looked at the bearing table I think I need the following bearing colours: YELLOW, YELLOW, BROWN, BROWN, BROWN?
Connecting rod big ends are coded C2, C3, C2, C3. Having checked the bearing table I think I need the following bearing colours: BROWN, BLACK, BROWN, BLACK?
Can anyone confirm my thinking is correct before I spend some more family inheritance on very small but obviously very precious metal bearings?
Tomorrow I’m off to the Kempton Park Auto jumble and Classic Bike show where I hope to find a tacho and the small but rare as hen’s teeth wire metal clip that holds the cables to the frame behind the headstock and fixes to the horn mounting.
MCTID:
I used a length of angle iron to lock the bits when I replaced the Oil Seals on my Kwacker ZZR1100. Locked everything up quite nicely. It failed it's MOT on leaking Oil Seals....although it was actually the oil mist from the WD40 that I always used on the exposed areas of the forks - but the MOT Tester at Kays Motorcycles wouldn't have it ! I should have wiped the forks over before I put it in for it's MOT !
The following year it was failed for the headlamp aim.....even though I said if any minor adjustments were needed, just to do them and i'd happily pay. Getting the bike home again and back to Alf's in Worthing was a right ferking PITA !
I never went back to either Dealer again.
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