SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400

Won't return to idle/slight oil seep...

<< < (6/12) > >>

Skoti:
Another scenario that gives the 'bog' is aftermarket needles.
Many cheapo needles have incorrect taper profiles compared to the genuine Honda items.

The transition from idle jet to main jet is affected exactly the way you describe.


This topic has in the past been discussed over on the USA SOHC site.



Good luck

Skoti

Skoti:


--- Quote from: Trigger on July 23, 2023, 10:41:53 AM ---
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on July 23, 2023, 09:23:48 AM ---Black airscrew limiters, I'd view them as obviously limiting movement, but think they look to do tbat specifically in relation to situations that we probably don't encounter in these lowlands  :)

For screws set at sea level, then riding up to high altitude, they seem to give a set adjustment to compensate without having to do the "turns counted out" thing. In other words you could easily set them at one end or t'other in that scenario. And maybe an early nod to restriction on adjustment for emissions legislation in some market.

Outside that, they dont seem to do much, but some may want them for originality purposes.

--- End quote ---

I have never understood this sea lever and high altitude  ::)

I have rode old Honda's though out the world, starting at sea level, up to 2500 meters and back down to sea level over and over again. On all these trips i have never tinkered with the carbs and the bike has always run spot on.

--- End quote ---

To be honest I do notice a slight power loss when crossing the higher alpine passes in Austria and Switzerland on my CB750F1 and my Norton Commando. (But I've never tinkered with the carbs)

It's not noticeable on my BMW R1150RT, but it has fuel injection and an engine management system so I suppose that compensates the air/fuel ratio accordingly? 

Mikep328:
The slight oil seep I have does not appear to be from the pan gasket. It is dripping from the cover on the left side of the engine adjacent to the pan and then down the side of the pan.  So based on an earlier post, the suspect is the gear change seal?

I suppose I could use the oil seep to determine if there is oil in the bike as per old BrittBikes - "If it's not leaking it's out of oil!"  But I'd prefer the typical Honda method - no oil leaks at all!

Orcade-Ian:
Mike,
My normally very oil tight 350/4 developed a drip from the sump a few months back, so I removed the L/H side cover and there was quite a misting of oil around the sprocket/gearchange shaft/oil pump.  I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and ran the engine for a while.  My leak was from the 'crimp' on the oil light switch where the case is rolled over the insulator.  Replaced the switch and it's now back to Honda oil tightness.  Might be worth a look.  It's 20 years since I restored the 350/4, so I can't grumble really and I had a spare switch from my 400/4.
Ian

Nurse Julie:
A good diagnostic is to remove the side cover, clean up the area thoroughly, puff with talcum powder, run engine and you will see a witness mark of oil coming from whichever seal / O ring is leaking.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page