SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
‘750 Start gremlin.
Lobo:
Cheers Gareth,
I’d argue though that 2 weeks is insufficient to pool any substantial amount of water, but more pertinent is the fact that on Normal (vs Reserve) you’re taking (good) fuel from a couple of inches up.
If a fortnight was enough to cause grief suppliers would have done something about it surely?
Appreciate the thought though.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I am of the view that the moisture absorption & general deterioration of petrol is not something that immediately settles in the petrol tank as a nice separate layer like in the old glass bowl fuel filters. The vibration of a running engine would soon start to disperse the water droplets so they can move into the float bowl.
If you leave a jar of petrol to evaporate it will leave an almost film like layer of lacquer behind this will block jets quite easily. I had the fuel filter on my Merc replaced as two tanks if SUL were needed before the misfire went on a fuel injected engine.
It might not be the cause of your particular problem but this E5/E10 petrol does not like sitting in tanks imho
K2-K6:
I habitually run tanks out to absolute minimal content (much to my wider family consternation) cars and bikes, initially do a practical check of runout from start of "reserve" light or tap, just so I know how far it will reasonably go, then operate within that for normal use.
Yes i do always fill completely for critical journey logistics :)
Posted before, with reasoning I think ? use of castor oil for dosing petrol @ 100:1 ratio to (my speculative theory) bind with the E and hopefully prevent or mitigate separation and drop out. Long history of being used with methanol burning motors.
Ad hoc testing. A mixed jar variously opened with this mix, now about two years old and absolutely clear with no change in homogeneous attributes.
Work on a lot of small garden machinery, with tiny , tiny carb flows, again with consistent reliability and notable lack of gumming, blocking, decay.
As already mentioned, this is anecdotal and limited to the things I can try.
I look after an old +30 yes V8 with injection, recently starting from 3 month layup and running this mix, sometimes 2mll per 100ml as it smalls nice :) it started on all 8 on very first try, not even a hesitation, also on really old NGK BPR6ES plugs too ;D it runs impeccably by any measure and @ closing on 170,000 miles total. It had roughly 25 ltrs in a 80+ tank during storage.
I emphasise, this is anecdotal, my experience, which you’d need to think if it has any benefits if considering trying anything similar. All fuel is straight from cheapest local supermarket and lowest grade.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I know it's been mentioned before about Castor Oil (CO) but had forgotten about it.
Is CO expensive to buy I'm thinking there are loads of grades/purity on the market. I've used Wynn's Dry fuel in the past but even E5 SUL has now caused problems in our V8. Might have been under dosed.
Johnny4428:
Interesting findings indeed Nigel. Thanks to you I run 100 to 1 castor oil in the 750 with a bit of exhaust pipe preservation in mind also. Haven’t tried 100 to 2. Maybe no need. Castor oil cheap by the gallon as well. I run Frost’s ethomix in the 550. (Just because I have some) I will probably run castors oil in it too when it’s finished.
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