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Doms CB550F1 project
DomP:
Thanks Bryan, I'll let you know if it comes to it. Oh its a 550 though not a 500 not that that may make no difference
Bryanj:
Same part as far as i know, lots of 500 parts fit and are even same part number!
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: DomP on July 13, 2024, 05:14:24 PM ---Are correct springs still available? I'm not sure I understand everything you've said there K2-K6
--- End quote ---
Supply, as Bryan notes, can't see any springs available.
Apologies for confusion.
To clarify;- the molded springs currently fitted should have nil effect on the idle issue you are chasing. They effectively (by tightening) make the retarded position more positive which would only enhance stability and repeatability at the tickover rpm. I'd dismiss them from suspect for this cause.
Two things to check though. Is the A/R mechanical not impeded by friction itself, all appears to rotate freely if you exhamine it ? And, have you checked that the static timing is definitely at the F mark accurately to make sure its getting that aspect right ?
DomP:
Cheers Nigel(?) I've decided to check it over from scratch but also to pull the carbs and bench sync them again. Having watched Motormac on YouTube I'm going to follow his method and set the 56mm distance on the bell crank, I've fiddled with them so much I can't now be sure where they're at. A bit more time spent now might save me further headaches.
K2-K6:
Yes, Nigel is correct.
Probably worthwhile looking through them again. Youjust gain more experience in doing this, a very pedantic/ critical eye in evaluation of them will often turn up something that may be causing an issue.
They are just plain fiddly to get right if there's any impairment etc, that's carburettor in general, even for experienced practitioners of the art. Can go round and round until finally sorting them. A friend runs a garden machinery business and hates the run around that inevitably comes with sorting out simple problems.
The bench sync is absolutely fine to run the engine without problem from tbat aspect. It has the major advantage of knowing they are mechanically in synchronization and helps in diagnosis of other faults if you don't try and sync them after installation.
The carb rack should allow for adjustment of the major rpm stop screw to fully lower the slides after setting them (if you use the drill method on here) which ensures that the slides have the capability of full restriction once set to parity.
You can then connect them to cables, without installing on engine, to ensure the cables definitely don't conflict with that function. Emphattge slides should sit at rest on that master tickover screw stop, and nothing else should impede that operation.
Adjustment of the airscrew idle function when running is then where the attention should be. The suggested opening point 1 1/2etc should be seen as competent start point, from which you need to test what exactly is needed. That method is in the Honda manual officially to instruct you.
Effectively, it gets you to adjust leaner until that cylinder falters, this is the air fuel mixture just going past its technical ideal of 14.7 to one ratio. Thats pertinent to the hardware in place AND the fuel in use at the elevation you are working.
Then it requires you to make it richer by adjustment to bring a 100 rpm drop (multimeter with frequency will register this if you've got one) to bring that carburettor and cylinder to ideal operating point.
Later Honda manual detail recording that absolute setting in service notes as baseline for the operation. It can be different for each of the for cylinders. If you don't get something competently in range at that point, this suggests something else maybe wrong, or some impairment is still there withing that idle circuit.
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