Doms CB550F1 project

[DomP]

Baking it with an electric heater seems to have done the trick, I'm really paranoid about flatting it all back though😳  CCR recommend 1500,2000,2500,3000 then a polish, any paint guys care to weigh in on this?

[Laverdaroo]

I’d go straight to the higher numbered w&d Dom for fear of shredding it. Plenty of water with a squirt of fairy liquid in it and it should rub up well if you’re happy on the set of the paint!
I thought the UV would have done it but chuffed you’re getting there buddy.


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[DomP]

Yeah its definitely getting there, just splashing the cash on heating the workshop up🤣

Do these carb adjusters look at bit far out?  Most photos I see they only show a few threads.  I think I'm going to get them off and revisit the whole carb thing while the tanks hardening up.

[Laverdaroo]

Yeah its definitely getting there, just splashing the cash on heating the workshop up

Do these carb adjusters look at bit far out?  Most photos I see they only show a few threads.  I think I'm going to get them off and revisit the whole carb thing while the tanks hardening up.

Yeah, a bit I think by happy to be corrected, it’s not a huge job to sort though bud, better to be safe than sorry. I’ve both the 400 and the 550 to do once they see the light of day again. Booo! think yerself lucky


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[DomP]

I need to just knuckle down and get it on the road

[Laverda Dave]

Yeah its definitely getting there, just splashing the cash on heating the workshop up🤣

Do these carb adjusters look at bit far out?  Most photos I see they only show a few threads.  I think I'm going to get them off and revisit the whole carb thing while the tanks hardening up.

I had a similar issue with the 400/4 carbs Dom. I couldn't understand why so took the carbs off to check. Turned out I had the choke fast idle screw set out too far (the screw that is part of a hex head adjuster and is offset to the hex so as you turn the screw to adjust it it moves concentrically against the carb fast idle lever which is a ramp basically and it in turn raises the carb slides to increase the revs). This only operates when you have the choke on BUT if it is set incorrectly with no clearance when the choke is off the slides will not close properly and you end up winding out those carb adjusting screws as per your photo in an attempt to drop the revs but you won't succeed because the cold start lever has no clearance!
That's how it works on the 400/4 Carbs anyway, it may be completely different on the 550!

[Laverdaroo]

I’d forgotten about that Dave, that’s what the issue was when I originally started the 400, completely forgotten about doing exactly the same thing. It suddenly clicked and I did as you just described. I wonder how many people have had just that issue.

It’s 18 months or so since the 550 was started due to fear of glazing the bores and worked on the mudguards, tank etc. I couldn’t run it as I didn’t have a seat anyway until early this year so until I could, starting wasn’t a priority.

Again, can’t remember what I did to get it running nicely, too much crap has occurred since then and my ‘head’s a shed) at the min. The dusty filing cabinet of a memory can’t dig that one out at the min..


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[DomP]

I think I follow that Dave.  To be honest, getting that part where the throttle comes to a stop on the off set hex you are referring to has been  a bit troublesome.  There are some measurements in the Honda manual that are so sketchy I still can't work out where they are measuring from.

[DomP]

Definitely 2nd from top not bottom for 069a carbs? Cb550f

[Oddjob]

Yep, 2nd down, on needles marked 273004.

[DomP]

Thanks Ken, can you link me to or remind me of the most reliable bench sync that will leave me with the correct amount of travel on the bell crank and idle screw?

[Oddjob]

There are a few different ways and I’m not saying one is better than the other but I’ve always used this way myself and it seems to work for me.

Wind the main idle screw fully out so there is no chance of it touching. Now, look down the throat of the carb from the engine side. Adjust the vac screw so that the slide is fully bottomed out, flick the butterfly a few times so the slides lift and settle, just to make sure nothing is sticking. Now adjust the screw until the slide just starts to lift, use a torch on the air box side if it helps, do the same for each carb. Now wind in the main idle screw until it starts to lift the slides ever so slightly. Compare the gap, does it look the same? If so that’s close enough. I always vac gauge mine after anyway just to get that fine tuning. Never had a hanging throttle done this way.

[DomP]

Thanks Ken that's essentially how I did it previously but I've found it ends up with a lot of adjuster threads showing and the throttle stop cam cabpnt be adjusted to touch.  I'll have another look at it tomorrow and see where I'm going wrong.

[Oddjob]

I thought it was meant to have a gap Dom

[DomP]

Maybe I'm talking about the wrong part, the off set bar with a hex section on the throttle bell crank.  I'll do a bench sync and take some photos tomorrow