My first project - 1974 CB360 K0

[Craizeehair]

Thanks both, that’s exactly what it’s doing, unfortunately I have no welding gear. I am tempted to leave it for now but don’t want to cause more problems by doing so. If it’s not a big deal I would be happy to deal with it further down the line.

[Johnny4428]

Not really a big deal just keep the ends of the pin greased to prevent ovaling of the brackets.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Removing the stand pivot pin just takes time I managed it without welding gear just used some drills, small chisel & a Hacksaw blade threaded through. The replacement pins on my 400 were solid  so should be easier to remove in the future.

You will only regret it  later if you leave it as it is. Your shout I was 74 when I removed mine, so much easier if you are working with a bare frame. Do it once do it right is my motto. 👍

[AshimotoK0]

I always drill 'em out. Never had a lot of success with the hacksaw method. Or on occasion remove the pivot  tube completely and weld in a section of tube from a Vauxhall Corsa wheel nut wrench.

[Craizeehair]

Drilling sounds like it would be a decent option for me, any idea what drill size you normally use Ash?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I never thought of it at the time - afterwards I did wonder if a couple of really close fitting bolts with a thick washers  could be inserted on each side then give them a good thump with a lump hammer. The bolt might stop the tube from distorting alternate on each side in the hope of breaking the rust layer after thorough soaking in penetrating oil. Even better if the tube was threaded to take the bolts?

[AshimotoK0]

I never thought of it at the time - afterwards I did wonder if a couple of really close fitting bolts with a thick washers  could be inserted on each side then give them a good thump with a lump hammer. The bolt might stop the tube from distorting alternate on each side in the hope of breaking the rust layer after thorough soaking in penetrating oil. Even better if the tube was threaded to take the bolts?

I  tried everything Ted and even hack-sawing like many recommend on here but I found that the pivot tube was severely  corroded to the centre stand  (all UK bikes, so used in all kinds of weather unlike USA bikes). I did about five of my centre stands and also my friends CB250K4 early last year  by drilling out and success on every one. The good thing is that the original pivot tube was hollow so the drill centres pretty good.

I need to check the exact  size of the drill I used though .. from memory it was just slightly smaller than the pivot tube OD.

[Craizeehair]

I took the petcock off today and found both tubes were broken off. DSS sell the originals for a mere £100, before I look at a replacement does anyone know what the tube lengths should be or where I could try and find the information, can’t find anything so far and the likelihood of a successful repair?

[Craizeehair]

Good morning all, just going through a few bits this morning and it’s time to address this, does anyone have a recommendation as to what I could sleeve the starter motor cable with? The exisiting is rotten, the actual cable itself is fine, so I don’t really want to replace the whole thing unless I have to, plus they don’t seem that easy to find!

[AshimotoK0]

Not sure on the exact sizes of the original rubber sleeving but this may be a starting point .. they do many other sizes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285006013277

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If you can re-use the end connections might be better to use new cable of the correct thickness.

I have noticed that battery cables seem to loose their suppleness with age not sure if that's just down to the insulation becoming hard or general oxidation of the wire itself. Could be a combination of both.

[Johnny4428]

Anybody on here actually replaced the cable! I have a starter motor that I have tested and works great but a PO has just cut the lead off and left about 3 to 4”. Maybe it was damaged.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The starter on my 500 has a join in the cable  quite close to the starter itself by a PO.

It's a nice shade of yellow, I've just improved the insulation on the joint as I didn't want to tamper with the starter motor connection.

[Craizeehair]

Not sure on the exact sizes of the original rubber sleeving but this may be a starting point .. they do many other sizes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285006013277

That’s brilliant, thank you for that.

[Craizeehair]

I felt like I had lost my way a little with this, I was doing too many different things at once, so I have put the engine back m one piece and popped it in the corner for now and will revisit that near the end, that feels like the best way round to do things.

I’m just freshening up a few of the painted bits, not a back to metal and respray or powder coat job, just enough to smarten things up for now. I shouldn’t be too far away from refurbishing some bits and can start slowly putting things back on the frame. 

It’s certainly doing its job of giving me loads of hands on experience as a first attempt and I’m loving it.