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Project CB350F
Bryanj:
Go to b&q and in the paint section they have plastic handled scrapers with replacable stanley knife blade for about £3
Sesman:
The trouble with those scrapers is that a hamfisted user like myself repeatedly snags the aluminium. Put a sharp edge on credit card, preferably the wife’s. Warming old gaskets with a hot gun can be helpful….one of those paint stripping types.
Moorey:
Keep soaking them in petrol and scrape off as they soften. A pain in the arse of a job.
magpie114:
Well progress has been much slower than I wanted but the frame, stands, brackets etc have now been powder coated and the swing arm phosphor bronze bushes from Julie fitted.
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The VIN plate was damaged and partially detached at the top when I got the bike but its straightened out reasonably well. The damage at the top is more noticeable in the photo.
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I know taper roller head bearings are popular but I had an unhappy time with them on my VFR400. I ended up fitting the stock Honda bearings which were perfect so I’m doing the same again.
Tomorrow I’m taking a pile of nuts and bolts to Able Platers in Livingstone who do small batch barrel zinc plating. They’re very near to a soda blasting company so I’m killing two birds with one stone and taking the cases along. However I’m unsure when I’ll be able to spray them as its far too cold in the shed and garage. Its very frosty at the moment and taking a lot of willpower to work in the garage!
I already have the engine and gearbox oil seals and but am unsure which gasket set brand to use as I’ve read conflicting opinions. I would like to get a genuine Honda head gasket if that tackles the oil weep issue.
magpie114:
Collected my zinc plated bits and pieces this week and I've sent some fork and shock parts for chrome plating which look like being an 8 week turnaround. Still haven't fully removed the cylinder base gasket but it's currently soaking in WD40 at the moment. I've never come across a gasket as stubborn as this one.
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Also stripped the forks which are in surprisingly good condition to replace the seals. One fork came apart easily but the bottom socket bolt on the other fork refused to move and the Allen drive rounded the socket out. Had to drill thro the to the shank to remove the damper and found a rock hard adhesive or sealant around the head, top threads and copper sealing washer. Fortunately soaking in cellulose thinners softened it and freed the washer.
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I'm going to try industrial strength paint stripper on the crankcases and any brand recommendations would be welcome. First though, in the next day or two, I've got to tackle the sheared sump bolt which I've been putting off, really don't want to get that wrong.
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