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Electrical problem?

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Sesman:
The old pvc insulation is good for 70degc. You won’t be able to touch it for long!

But of course that doesn’t mean you don’t have a problem. Is the temp pretty similar along the full length of the cable. If it is, it’s probably ‘normal’. If the temp is much higher at a terminal, you may have a high resistance joint, which needs dealing with as eventually it will burn out. I expect folk will wonder why the fuse doesn’t blow. The reason is due to localised heating I2R. The current remains below the fuse blowing threshold, but the the resistance has risen generating more heat. It’s the primary cause of most connection failures and domestic house fires.

fourfive:
Thanks for all the above advice, I've cleaned the joints up and the fuse holder and now with the ignition on but engine not running there is very little if any warming of the two red wires.
The reason I had the ignition on in the first place is I am trying to get the headlamp to work. I have no power to the headlamp fuse and looking at the wiring diagram the black/yellow wire goes to the dip/beam switch. The black/red wire goes to the right hand switch. Where does that circuit get it's power from? If I put a live to the black/yellow wire going up to the switch dip and beam work.

Bryanj:
There is one wire in the headlamp shell that DOES NOT connect to the same colour, i vaugely remember the femal connector having a yellow stripe on the female plastic sleeve.
Enlarge your wiring diagram and follow the wires.
Power goes into rh switch on a black then comes out on 2 different colours depending on position, 1 for park/side lights and one for head, both go down to fuse box, head then comes back up to headlamp and to lh switch.

Hope that helps

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