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1980 CB250RSA Hawaiian Blue Project.

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AshimotoK0:

--- Quote from: Oddjob on December 22, 2023, 03:31:39 PM ---I've got a Mazda 3 in that colour red Ash, it's called Soul Red IIRC. It's a lovely colour, very similar to the red on my CB1300, which is called Arcadian Red.

--- End quote ---

Yes they refer to it as Mazda 46v Soul Red Ken.. First time I saw a car painted in  it on the motorway, in the sunshine I,  went WOW! ... what a brilliant colour.

Laverda Dave:
Some great repair work on the rear guard Ash, a known rot point on these. Have you sprayed the PJ1 directly over the original Honda engine finish on the cases and then baked, did you have to use etch primer first or wilk rhe PJ1 stick to anything?

We had a Mazda MX5 in that red colour, lovely car, fantastic to drive and the only car I enjoyed working on . We had to sell it when the O/H suffered with a prolapsed disc in her back and found it really painful to use the clutch.

AshimotoK0:

--- Quote from: Laverda Dave on December 23, 2023, 10:05:42 AM ---Some great repair work on the rear guard Ash, a known rot point on these. Have you sprayed the PJ1 directly over the original Honda engine finish on the cases and then baked, did you have to use etch primer first or wilk rhe PJ1 stick to anything?

--- End quote ---
It was s b@gger to get clean Dave ... loads of oily grime but degreased it pretty well using various methods and when I washed it finally in acetone, the original finish softened very slightly so I rubbed all over with Scotchbrite pads and then put the PJ1 on top. Seems to have adhered pretty well but need to bake over Christmas at work , as they have a lab type oven.

AshimotoK0:
Found that one of the RS fork stanchions is bent so going to have to check the frame out too, plus source new stanchions or rechrome some straight but pitted ones, which is a bit of a bummer. Need to quiz  the PO in pub to see if he has ever seriously dropped the bike (he owned it from new) or perhaps forks were off the donor bike he had. Not settled up with him yet anyway he doesn't seem that bothered ... just keen to see it restored. I bought some pitted but supposedly straight forks off eBay for £40, so will get those rechromed at this place (I can drop off and pick up as I usually go to Leeds a couple of times/month).
 
https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/motorcycle-fork-rechroming-service-for-stanchions-both-legs


 There are a few bits I can sell on to fund it all ..like 3 wheels, seat, barrels/piston x2  and head covers x2 . All of the 3 heads I got with it look dodgy to me as two have at least one valve seat removed. They all have decent cam bearing surfaces though. I think one head may be off an XL or something as it doesn't have the valve decompressor assembly and is not bored for one either. Obviously, I have the NOS top end so going to fit all of those anyway. Just need to source a genuine NOS standard piston (already have the genuine rings set).

To be honest, the bottom end, despite the bike having done 50k looks pretty decent but I already have the  low mileage bottom end internals that I got from DK so I am using those for the engine rebuild..  The tank I got for £45 was an absolute steal ... really nice condition. I was told it had been powder coated but when I  rubbed it down you get white dust so I think it's not PC and the white dust is from clear coat.

I now have the two 1 litre bottles of 'unobtainium-to-Joe-public'  olive drab passivate chemical concoction, so had a go at plating a bolt and it turned out pretty good.
 
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I stripped the bar switches and painted the casings with etch primer then PJ1 and baked at 150 C on Friday and blasted and painted the handlebars with etch primer/PJ1 satin. Not sure if I should satin 2K the handlebars too. What do you reckon? Also need to find the correct paint for the green letter indents. May have to source a replacement kill switch knob too. I repainted the tacho drive too in PJ1 satin black  and cleaned  and painted the plastic sprocket cover ... took ages as absolutely caked in chain grease.

Seabeowner:
No comments from me except how do you propose checking the frame out? Just close inspection or bar through the headstock.
Keep the info coming as all is very interesting as usual.

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