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front brake adjust

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deltarider:
Replaced my brake pads by ones with more meat. Now I can't get the front wheel to spin as freely as I was used to. Brakes worked well before and the release was also good. Should I have used this tool (pic) to push back the piston somewhat before fitting the new pads? And if I do that, do I then need to open the bleeder or the brake fluid container at the handlebar? I have read the manual about 'drag', 'halve a turn', '0,15mm' etc. but for some reason I don't quite understand what that caliper adjust bolt does or is supposed to do. Can there be something wrong with that bolt?

Bryanj:
Yes you should have pushed the piston back, also remove the paint arround the outside of the pad.
It is also possible the seal groove is corroded and piston pitted which means a caliper stripdown

Johnwebley:
As a quick thing,

Slacken the 2 caliper bolts

If you have a thin spanner, tyre lever,

Put it between disc and moving piston,

Tighten 2 bolts evenly

The piston should go into the caliper,

The brake fluid will just go into the  master cylinder reservoir

Remove bit of metal,
Tighten the 2 bolts

Spin the wheel, check the pad is not rubbing

Them pump the brake lever,until the gap is normal

If this doesn't work,

Check the post from Bryan


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deltarider:
Thanks gents, appreciated. Yesterday clearly wasn't my brightest day. Later in the evening I thought of the same resolution John suggested.
It's winter and if needed I have still ample time for a caliper stripdown. But let me first check if I can arrive at the good working brake I had before. So far I didn't have problems with my brake.
Some 15 years ago an uncle (car mechanic) has honed where the piston sits somewhat. Piston was a bit pitted but according to him not that bad that it would need to be replaced.
I think there are two reasons my brake so far didn't need much work.
1) I never ride in rain, so less accumulation of dirt.
2) When in hibernation, say every 6 weeks, I roll my bike and apply the brake a couple of times.
A friend has another solution: he pushes the piston a bit back at the beginning of each hibernation.
Question: what can cause the pads wear like in the pic below? Should I maybe be more precise in aligning the activated pad to the disk or is the wear shown in the pic not abnormal? The reaction pad has that hump in the back, so that one will adept.
The pads are by EBC and as you can see, I chamfered them.
I had the disk of and I checked with a feeler gauge: no warp. In the international forum there's much talk about sanding the disk for improved braking. So far I have not read what with, like what # grit.
Any suggestions?

Johnwebley:
Those pads look ok

The bit filed away is to stop squealing

Use A LITTLE  coppa slip around the moving pad and on the hump of the fixed pad,

Could also help

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