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Bryanj:
The regulator dosn't  dump current on any of the Honda sohc 4's it alters the current flow to the centre coil

Octavian:
Hey all, yayyy! Got all the indicators working, unfortunately though the LHS is blinking double speed so I will need to check the bulbs and connections on that side again.

I also got the headlamp working on position, headlamp, high beam, dipped, and main beam flash including all the corresponding lights in the displays.  For about 2 minutes, then they all went dead again after I switched the key off and on.... ho hum, needless to say my Sunday evening bike work finished quite promptly, almost with a spanner buried in the garage wall!

Regarding the switch, I think I am right about the extra wire.  I know there is a light blue/white and orange/white in the loom that for uk models is there for ....decoration.

PatM:
Great!

well, at least you are on the home run! Indicator light winking wildly is one bulb not flashing as they are in parallel with each other, per side. In the mid seventies when my flasher unit packed up on my A100- i made one from a 12v relay and a bloody great 50mfd capacitor- worked a treat and all bits from work- marvelous!

I don't want to go out into the cold and risk my headlamp off- as Ive got a Cibe conversion and the wires only seem to go back one way- and any variation of this usually means no light or an earth wire off!
I'm sure you are right about the spares and their colour..

PatM

Bryanj:
The light blue with white and the orange with white are from a US model and are for the front "running" lights in the indicators

K2-K6:
Is it the ignition switch with 1st position for engine and an additional click for lights as well?

If so they where usually brass surface contacts on a rotating barrel inside the back of the switch and can get a) worn and b) crusty so worth a clean out to get reliable. contact cleaner may be effective but as far as I can remember the whole headlight current passes through this contact so it may be worth a dismantle to assess for reliability in the future.

I've done this on 750's and think the switch maybe the same one; if you remove it and get it to warm room temp then you can gently relieve the small wedges on the backside of the plastic barrel (be carfefull not to damage as they keep the assembly at the correct tolerance to give reliable contact in use) you can then gently clean all the contacts with very fine wet / dry 1000grit and some lubricant to get a almost polished surface. I reassemble with petroleum jelly although I think they were dry from new.

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