Mike's CB550 Project

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks. That won’t have been masked when I got it powder coated so I’ll need to take care of it. I would have missed that!

[Mike_Berkshire]

Can anyone tell me what guage/number of strands wire would be right to use for this green wire? Thanks

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I would release the male spade from the connector block by depressing the small tag. Wind back a few strands of insulation to where the wire is good then measure the outside diameter as a starting point. I would use  decent multi stranded copper replacement.

[Mike_Berkshire]

I have spent a couple of hours peeling off the manky masking tape to remove the burned out green cable today. I found a number of places where two of the same colour wires from the fuse end of the loom have been soldered to a single wire heading up the headlamp end. Due to the poor quality of the soldering and insulation, I assume that these are something that a previous owner has done: 2 x brown to 1 brown, 2 lime/pink to 1 lime/pink, 2 green/yellow to 1 green/yellow, 2 green/red to 1 green/red, 2 black to 2 black. If this is a PO modification can anyone suggest why they would have done this?

Also, the male spade connector block (6 way) has melted where the green ground wire in it burned out and I would like to replace it. Can anyone recommend a source for a new M&F connector block, M&F spades that are good quality?

Thanks

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I replaced my Plastic multi block connectors all came from Kojaycat.

I could not find the listings on their site so I e-mailed them and after a couple of photos it was all sorted. My loom was a K1 with the single fuse if yours is the same PM and I will look for the invoice that has the part numbers, if it was an online receipt I think it will be lost as I lost a lot of old e-mails..

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Found my receipts

1 set(s) US6WW 6.3mm 6 way white Loom Connectorr (M&F)
1 set(s) US8WW 6.3mm 8 way white
1 set(s) US9WW 6.3mm 9 way white

They also sell the 4 way connectors & right size bullets etc.

They came with new terminals in the packs - my  existing ones cleaned up with Cilit Bank Limescale cleaner as per NJ's advice.

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks Bryan - I have 3 fuses (see picture). I will check out Kojaycat; thanks for the recommendation and also the tip to clean the contacts.

Any idea why the splicing of wires in the loom might have been done; Im just curious.

[Bryanj]

Splicing inside the loom is a Honda thing and found regularly, connectors from Big Al on the forum, he has spent a long time sorting exact matches and makes looms with proper colours unlike a lot of the pattern ones

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I have read that some spilcing was in the looms when made as Bryan mentions though not sure how many.
The cost of individual connectors soon adds up so if it's really bad a loom if available might be worth considering.

I sourced my 400 loom from the link below - all the colours were as the original one.
Big Al has a good reputation here.

.https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Wiring-Harnesses.html

[Mike_Berkshire]

Interesting that the splicing may have been original Honda! Thanks for posting the link Ted; those prices are pretty reasonable; I have seen a lot higher and it put me off. I will have a ponder but I think I may get a new loom from these guys. I am a bit unsure of what exact model my bike is though and would want to be sure I got the right loom; VJMC identified it as a '76 US CB550K. I don't know whether that makes it K1,2,3 etc

Distinguishing features that don't seem to match the parts books in the archive are the aluminium idiot light console, ignition switch is not between the clocks and the petrol tank cap is not underneath a cover/flap. Although maybe I have been reading the parts books wrong. Is there anything I can refer to on the forum that would help me determine the correct model/variant?

Thanks again for the great help

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My 500 K1 has the ignition switch down on the left side of the frame, only one fuse & the Alloy Idiot light strip, no flap cover on my petrol tank.

Pretty sure if you get in touch with Elextrexworld and tell them how many fuses you have. where the ignition switch is,  where your panel lights are - they will advise you if theirs is suitable.

Like you I like to be sure I'm ordering the right part.  It does not help that on older bikes parts are often fitted with parts from different model variants. Poor avialibility of parts on old Hondas in the past has not helped. My 500 was described by Bryan as a Bitza - hasn't stopped me doing the rebuild even though I have some odd switch gear that took some working out. With lots of help here I've almost finished my 500 moneypit.

I suspect VJMC only really tells you the date of the frame you had when it left the factory not what might have been changed by previous owners.

[Bryanj]

Anodising on idiot light panel frequently comes off leaving polishable alloy, ignition switch should be bolted to lh downdube under tank, only F and K3 had the fuel flap.
Questions to id the bike
1 does it have 3 fuses(plus 2 spare)
2 does it have lights on/off on RH switchgear
3 does it have the "safety interlock" system on the starter(swich on clutch lever housing, diode or safety box under LH sidepanel)
Lastly PM your frame and engine number and i will check it in my US id book

[Mike_Berkshire]

Cheers Bryan.
Definitely had the microswitch in the clutch housing but there isn't a place for it in the replacement one I got; the original is not usable as the lever had been broken off.
The idiot light panel is already polished by me; I couldn't resist it.
Will check the RH switchgear and dig out the frame number when next in the shed; many thanks, much appreciated!

[Mike_Berkshire]

There is no light switch on the RH handlebar switch gear, the frame number is:
CB550-1243531

There are 3 fuses in the fuse holder next to each other but I don't know if any of these are spares. Picture below

[Bryanj]

OK, i will check the number when i finish work about 7am, without the clutch switch it will have to be in neutral with green light on to start as you have the diode system.
It may be in your interest to get a uk RH switch so you can turn the lights off, there is a sort of changeover switch on the start button to turn the lights off when starting that can give problems