Bearing shells, main, code markings

[Bigbird]

Hi, attached picture shows shell for journal with marking on. No colourcode visible, or lettercode on case visible. Is D3E STD, indicating which colour this bearing is. Help with the indication musch appreciated.




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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Those markings are just manufacuring codes, the colour code is on one of the edges of the shell.

You can have different manufacturing codes for the same colour shell, even if all your batch codes are the same they might be different colours.

The crank case codes are on the rear of the case in clear cast five letters. Usually a combination of A,B & C.

Below is a typical shell colour code marking.Main bearing shell by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

. This is a casing code.

.casing marks by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Bigbird]

Thanks, ill remove paint on the rearside of the block to look for lettercode. BRB


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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thanks, ill remove paint on the rearside of the block to look for lettercode. BRB


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You can usually read it through the paint - quick wire brush might help if its very dirty.

If you can identify just one bit of colour on the edge of a mains shell then it will be the same colour shell for the corresponding case code letters - assuming the shells are original - it is then a matter of measuring  the crank main journals very accurately for any wear.
The tables in the parts book will show the sizes available so you can increase the shell thickness to compensate for wear. Black is the thickest if you can find them.

It is confusing as the big end tables switch axis compared to the mains - black is still the thickest. Crank web markings are very fine - I could see some of mine but it would not photograph - just needed the right light at the right angle - they are quite feint over time. Oddly enough the con rod weight codes are usually quite easy to read.

My crank mains had some bad scoring so I had to replaced it with a good used one.

You might find it useful to use the search facility here at the top of the web page as this is an area of discussion that comes up pretty often.

Although this was a 400 the process is the same page 5 lower down shows my thoughts at the time.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,30313.msg296377.html#msg296377
 

[Laverdaroo]

Loads of shells available when you’re looking. I know somebody with one or two theyd shift.


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[Bryanj]

If you are good with a mic measure the crank pins, sizes for codes are in the manual

[Bigbird]

Thanks for replying! I now found the markings on case under the paint! CCBBC

Also, can anyone help me to what the mark on the crankshaft says? Looks like it says UG, is this to determine shellsize?





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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Nope the crank markings for the big ends are on the curved side of the crank in black.
That UG is probably just a casting batch number for the crank, your codes C.C.B.B.C  look strangely spaced. They give you one axis in the parts book the first letter on the left is for number one mains. You need to find a colour code on the side of the shells. If they are not visible you need to measure the mains journals very accurately. That will give you the colour code - there are no real shortcuts. You could buy one set of say brown shells then use Plastigauge of the right range to measure the clearances.
Those marks on your crank big end are not good, I would clean them with petrol and check them all.