SOHC.co.uk Forums > Project Board
TL125S
Rozabikes Tim:
Nice going Dave, love your attention to detail.
Re switch, see link below. These a very close to original but have more functions. Leccy start etc. Dirt cheap. I've bought a set as nothing to loose. Plastic bodies but even so, a nice weighty feel. Not looked any deeper at quality. From what I remember, master on off control on right bar and dip / indicators on the left. Is that correct in the flesh?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387718872581?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=QYbagBvSTI-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Wwl4JSf7QJi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Laverda Dave:
Hi Tim.
Thanks for you kind comments, its turning into a labour of love (or agnst!) depending on the day ;).
I can send you the patterns to make the cable and refelctor brackets if you need them, let me know.
Yep, I looked at those switches and as you say dirt cheap and I'd rather try these than pay over £250 for a s/h part from Germany that may or may not work (the TL headlight bracket I bought from ebay France wasn't as advertised and I had to pay more #@%$ tax on it when I collected it from the post office >:().
The only issue I can see with these apart from the additional functions that are not need are the cable colours and the block connectors. I'd have to modify these with bullet connectors to suit.
I have been looking at these as an alternative, they look more the part and again are as cheap as chips;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276242885682?_skw=HONDA+HANDLBAR+SWITCH+FOR+TL125&itmmeta=01JGY8BKYNWMJWN1JERKPWBDDH&hash=item40515bec32:g:Oo0AAOSwUDRlQyMV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnrkUJG9NQKq7%2FH6F6ViBsT4CwXJv5tyQnbu6l6Eo%2FcSh%2B1QS%2BrrL5lkXo1yvlN8LACZoQNuIu%2FUoX0JPhfjhiRvbnD42BVeBByuMgjVcktV5y%2Bf0pMFf%2FmCnag%2BIf0dFGw%2FGL9oVCDyyeqm8D5g%2F%2B42UqHlcDQdgrRGvAKfaeFnQ%2B%2BK459HWeRXSoARTwAQojc1kq0sqWLvDvkpiJmApVjIfTJM71M1Xy%2BucyP0DGkXQ5jVzs14sZgTx4EJR8W1jfyZHGPVma4ms%2BrDH%2F3YV%2Bu%2FQ30eN20pWa25sFCiNlsIvWv0iFjxqF99h03QlHNOVU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwr-uyIdl
I have contacted my mate and given him the details of the s/h switch and will let him decide, it's his money although I'd be happy to spend it for him ;).
On another slightly different TL subject.......Does your bike still have the rear indicator brackets welded to the frame on the rear loop? The ones on my bike have been cut off. If your bike does have the brackets would it be possible for you to take a photo of it please? I know the indicators themselves have the normal 'U' shaped bracket with the internal rubber cushion fitted and these mount to the bracket. I'm just a bit stuck of how the bracket should look (I assume it is 'L' shaped), It's size as in dimensions and where it should fit on the loop (measurement from the upper rear shock mount). If your bike still has these brackets fitted it would be a godsend if you are able to supply some measurements. The good news is the U bracket and cusion is available as a pattern part from CSMNL (at a cost and DSS dont stock them).
Cheers
Dave
Rozabikes Tim:
No problems re rear bracket info for indicators. May get a chance tomorrow and will PM info.
Yes please on the patterns.
Has your front light bracket got the rubber mounts where it sits into the lower yoke? If not let me know as seemed unobtainable but I located some totally by chance in my Japan Buyee searches.
I recon that switch you have seen is the same as I've got. Image in the link I sent has left and right swapped round... I'll take some pictures of mine including cabling etc.
Laverda Dave:
Thanks Tim and No, the bracket I have doesn't have the lower rubbers so if you can get a couple from your source that would be good. Let me know the details and I'll pay via PayPal F&F if ok with you.
I'll send the patterns, I'll draw them up and send these rather then the cardboard paterns. That will be the cable guides and the front reflector mounts. Send me a PM with your address and I'll get them drawn up.
Laverda Dave:
I took a break from bracket making whilst I wait for some rubber cushions from HGB to determine the hole size required to make the ignition bracket.
In the meantime I decided to strip the engine and give the various components a good clean in the (freezing cold) parts washer. Getting into the engine was difficult due to the butchered heads on the engine screws, I had to drill a couple out after penetrating oil and lots of heat failed.
Once into the engine all was not good, the cam chain had done an amazing impression of a chain saw on the left hand crankcase eating away at the alloy and only prevented doing more damage due to the edge of the main bearing being in the way! The cam chain tension was on its maximum adjustment. Once out the deflection on the cam chain was in the region of 25mm, fair to say its toast! The cam chain drive wheel on the end of the crankshaft is so badly worn I am surprised the chain actually stayed on it! This appears to be an interference fit on the crank as I cannot see any keyway or other form of retention so hopefully it will pull off with a bit of heat and a puller? Has anyone changed one of these, I notice they are still available from CSMNL.
As thought the engine has been taken out to 150cc. The liner is like a knife edge at the spigot, what a shame whoever did the re-bore didn’t bore it straight :-\. One edge of the liner is thicker than the other. There is also a barrel fin waiting to drop off due to a crack so this and the state of the bore make me think I need to look out for another barrel and start afresh. There is someone on eBay who sells 150cc barrels but these are from Chinese Keyway engines and are square finned and would look a bit odd on a 1976 TL engine :(. If anyone has a cylinder lying around they’d like to sell please let me know.
I discoverd a nice selection of bolts holding the clutch pressure plate on, all of various lengths :o. It is obvious a final drive chain has failed in a big way previously looking at the state of the engine casing (and the sproket cover has a huge crack right across it).
Next task is to remove the engine dowels and finish scraping the gaskets off that have been stuck on with what looks likes cement! I will drift out the gearbox bearings although one of these is a blind bearing so I’m not sure how I’ll deal with getting that one out, look on YouTube maybe? Once the cases are empty I will loosely reassemble, fit it back in the frame and take the frame, swing arm and rear wheel to be alignment checked, I bet the frame is bent ::)
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