Idiot Bulbs and Holders

[Mike_Berkshire]

Hi all, I have traced a fault to a short in the idiot light console on my '76 K2 and discovered a lot of corrosion and some general bodgery lurking in the panel (photo below). The upshot is I need a couple of new bulbs and bulb holders; if I can get them I will probably replace everything with new. I am not fussed if the parts are not genuine; I just want the lights to work. From what I have measured the bulbs are 9mm dia bayonet. I have found a source of 9mm bulbs and holders as per these links:

Holder: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/side-light-bulb-holder
Bulb: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/clear-4w-bulb-9mm-cap

Do these look suitable and/or has anyone got a tried and trusted source?

Many thanks, Mike

[Skoti]

Hi all, I have traced a fault to a short in the idiot light console on my '76 K2 and discovered a lot of corrosion and some general bodgery lurking in the panel (photo below). The upshot is I need a couple of new bulbs and bulb holders; if I can get them I will probably replace everything with new. I am not fussed if the parts are not genuine; I just want the lights to work. From what I have measured the bulbs are 9mm dia bayonet. I have found a source of 9mm bulbs and holders as per these links:

Holder: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/side-light-bulb-holder
Bulb: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/clear-4w-bulb-9mm-cap

Do these look suitable and/or has anyone got a tried and trusted source?

Many thanks, Mike

Better to use genuine Honda 3.4w bulb as more powerful bulbs risk melting the plastic console.

Honda part number 34902 259 003


Silvers does them here:-

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part_3467/


Or order and collect from your local Honda dealer postage free.

[BigAl (Alan)]

Lanp-holder with fibre washer insulator, the crimped terminal is exposed to the metal spring at the rear, try and source a lamp-holder with a fuller insulator.
See  attached picture.

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks guys! Mike

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Any of this any good to you Mike ?
The three rubber type covers on the left I think are NOS given to me.
Bulb holders are used but not rusty inside.

Just the cost of a Jiffi bag & postage if you want them.


.PXL_20241221_160639275 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Bryanj]

I have seen complete pattern assemblies but cant remember where, maybe 4 into 1 in us

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

IIRC I bought the complete loom with bulb holders on my 500 from a seller in Germany.

[BigAl (Alan)]

Once you have the rubber lamp-holders the sub-harness can be repaired

[Mike_Berkshire]

Any of this any good to you Mike ?
The three rubber type covers on the left I think are NOS given to me.
Bulb holders are used but not rusty inside.

Just the cost of a Jiffi bag & postage if you want them.


.PXL_20241221_160639275 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Yes please Ted! Please send me a PM of what to pay you and how. Much appreciated!

[Mike_Berkshire]

As an associated question; what good soldering irons/stations are there for working on the electrics of these old bikes? I have 3 different irons and none of them seem to perform well. I am, or was pretty competent at soldering as part of my job was building circuit boards and electronic calibration tools in my early career. Maybe there was more lead in the solder then and it worked better. Any recommendations greatly received!

[Bryanj]

Found this one googling the part number 37581323000

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

As an associated question; what good soldering irons/stations are there for working on the electrics of these old bikes? I have 3 different irons and none of them seem to perform well. I am, or was pretty competent at soldering as part of my job was building circuit boards and electronic calibration tools in my early career. Maybe there was more lead in the solder then and it worked better. Any recommendations greatly received!

For bike stuff I use a Weller soldering gun, I also use leaded solder, care has to be taken with fluxes as some are very corrosive.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/weller-electric-soldering-gun-230v-140w/748gm

Mine is about 30 years (100 W)old so not as up to date as this one - cost about £12. I use one of those hands free clamp stand  things to hold the wire & the part, to reduce getting burnt by drips etc.

[Bryanj]

I use a portasol butane poweed one now, usefull for heatshrink as well

[deltarider]

I had a deteriotated rubber there and solved it with vulcanic tape. Being out of sight, it doesn't affect the looks. On trips I have always vulcanic tape with me. Great stuff.

[ST1100]

Maybe there was more lead in the solder then and it worked better.

Yep, that "unleaded" solder definitely sux...
I'd learned quickly to stay away from the affordable, pattern solders and choose quality ones only; preferable one with flux inside...
A tin of flux extra and some copper-wick to clean old soldering spots...
Irons vary; I always loved my small Japanese made, pencil sized 5/25W (boost button) thing, own it since decades...
a similar build example:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09S5V2TW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8
for refurbing Sony stereos I gifted myself now with a "soldering station" featuring active temperature/power control, and that Parkside thing works astonishingly well:
https://www.lidl.de/p/parkside-digitale-loetstation-plsd-60-c3-60-w-mit-loetzinn/p100380334
(considered a hot air soldering station, but dismissed it over a) such is primarily for working on PCBs, b) the prices...)
then some more accessories to ease workshop life:
"3rd hand" (jointed gator clamps to hold pieces), headband magnifier with internal light...
Then mini heat-gun for those shrink tubes:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0CJ6H892F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8
(the full sized heat-gun is kinda blunt, more suited for heating entire cases and parts...)