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Problem with horn wiring.

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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):

--- Quote from: ted_paper on January 04, 2025, 12:46:32 PM ---Managed to sneak into garage for 10mins.
Reading is around 12v
Split L/H switch photos attached

--- End quote ---

Where did you take the 12v reading from?

Mikep328:
If there are TWO horn wires, connect the black probe to one and the red probe to the other.  Turn on the ignition and press the horn button.  You should see "battery voltage" (12-13V) on the multimeter.  You might see - (minus) voltage but that doesn't matter in this case.  It just means that you connected the red lead to the negative (earth/ground) wire instead of the hot wire.  Makes no difference for this test. 

ted_paper:
Solved!
Thanks to the advice given, I traced the problem back to the spade connectors.
When trying the probes, one to the connectors seem to "wobble " a bit more than I expected so I gave it a gentle wiggle and it come off with few millimetres of wire. Did the same with the other and the same result. I managed to remove a small piece of sleeving to reveal the wires and the bulb test worked!  :)
I just need to cut back a bit more to try and extend the wires to the correct length.
The only strange thing is that both of the spade connections show signs of melting.....
Thanks for your patience and all the help given.

Sesman:
I’m guessing that the poor connection created a high resistance joint resulting in the production of excessive heat, which is unusual given the normal type of horn use. Oddly enough my horn connections show similar signs of heat distortion, but not to that extent.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Proximity to a hot  engine/exhaust pipes doesn't help.

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