Ken's (oddjob) 500/4 resto??? Where are you with it?

[Oddjob]

Interesting to see the debate the side stand idea has generated. Different ideas and perspectives. I didn't consider something to drag the sidestand back up, I just wanted something to warn me it was down, if that was an audible warning or something that stopped the engine firing I was working out what I thought would work the best whilst also being simple and easy to install.

Lets see what the community comes up with, someone somewhere may just have the perfect idea.

[JamesH]

I came across this recently - might be a good option?:

- https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-green-internal-frame-chassis-coating-with-spray-nozzle/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7aTiYXBiwMVbpRQBh2ZZQz5EAQYBCABEgLEz_D_BwE

I'm planning to use it on the next 750 police bike frame projects I build (a P0 and P2), prior to them being stripped and painted.

I generally take the same approach as Ken and get the frame interface welds checked/sealed if possible prior to paint - luckily the guy who strips my frames is an excellent welder, so he can do both jobs simultaneously which avoids a time delay in the frames flash rusting prior to priming/paint..

[Oddjob]

That looks interesting James, I wonder how big the nozzle head is though, small enough to go through the blow holes?

I thought I was the only one going to such extremes, in fact when I mentioned it the other year it was sort of said it would weaken the frame to have the welds closed, or if not weaken it then affect how the frame flexs and that would affect how the bike handles. Any insight on your yours performed afterwards.

Funny how little conversations like this can really get people talking, like my idea of having a digital volt meter, I saw it on Alan Millyards 6. Cylinder Z1 and thought I like that idea, his was mounted in the idiot panel but I thought that might leave it exposed to the elements etc so came up with the idea of mounting it inside the tacho, it was finding a really small voltmeter that proved to be harder than mounting it through the tacho facia. Again, some said it was a waste of time and wasn’t needed but the amount of charging problems being posted these days clearly show these old girls are reaching their limit on age related wiring problems and anything to give you advance notice of that happening has to be worthwhile.

[taysidedragon]

For the sidestand why don't you fit one of those rubber strips to it, like the 400f uses. The rubber catches first and pulls the stand back before the stand itself digs in.
When you drain the zinc paint out of the frame tubes how are you going to prevent the silver paint showing on the fresh powder coat? It's likely to be dripping out for quite a while. I would have thought that just using Waxoyl or Lanoguard inside the frame tubes would be more than enough protection.

[Oddjob]

I’ll just wipe any excess off with a rag soaked in thinners, shouldn’t affect the powder coating. I do agree it will take a little draining but if it’s runny enough it shouldn’t be too hard, I intend to suspend the frame on bungie ropes to get the right angle to make the drain hole the lowest point.

You can tell I tend to overthink things, I have imagine them in my head then try and find the problems before they occur, far too much time on my hands 😀😀😀

[Sesman]

You could also consider using Atom-Mac and or Dynax S50? You would for course need to inject the Atom -Mac.

Oops,,sorry. Bilt Hamber  products.

[JamesH]

For the sidestand why don't you fit one of those rubber strips to it, like the 400f uses. The rubber catches first and pulls the stand back before the stand itself digs in.
When you drain the zinc paint out of the frame tubes how are you going to prevent the silver paint showing on the fresh powder coat? It's likely to be dripping out for quite a while. I would have thought that just using Waxoyl or Lanoguard inside the frame tubes would be more than enough protection.

My plan on the next frames (the Police bikes) is to do the internal coating before the frames are blasted. I’ll address any weld defects first, then internally paint, weld any access holes, dress back, then blast, zinc prime and paint. I’m sure there’s a hole in my thinking somewhere lol..


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[Oddjob]

I did consider that approach James but felt there was a chance that the heat of the ovens used to cure the powder coat would affect the internal coating as well, especially Waxoyl.

[JamesH]

Fair point Ken. I have my frames painted so the curing temperatures involved are considerably less I guess. Like you say, removing any excess that runs out over the PC finish carefully with a light solvent should do the trick.

[JamesH]

Ken - saw your post on US forum re. 500/550 ignition switch bracket. Pretty sure I have one for you - drop me a Pm. James

[Oddjob]

It’s Mike Berkshire who wants the bracket James, I thought I’d see if the yanks have one spare as they did tend to move the switch to the bars back in the day.

Thanks for responding though, decent of you.

[Oddjob]

For the sidestand why don't you fit one of those rubber strips to it, like the 400f uses. The rubber catches first and pulls the stand back before the stand itself digs in.

Sorry, forgot to reply to this point. The shape of the heel of the 500 is different to the 550 stand for instance, the 550 did have the rubber strip fitted BUT they also moved it back on the frame from under the lower front engine mounts to just behind the riders footrests, whether that location helped it work I've no idea. But due to the shape of the heel on the 500 it wasn't feasible. I did consider fitting a 550 side stand but wasn't sure if it was smaller/larger due to different mounting location and TBH I just don't like the shape of the 550 side stand anyway. If I iron out the bugs on this idea I'll be sure to post a possible solution. I saw a pic of a CB550 clutch cover the other day with a small slave cylinder attached to it, clearly ditching the cable pull arrangement, looked pretty good TBH but a little sticky outie for my liking.

[Oddjob]

Ohh, I forgot this little project.

Some will look at this and just say WHY? Some will like it, some may hate it. It was just one of those things that just happened to be able to be done and I thought, why not?

So I have been replacing clutch basket rubbers on some of my spare clutches over last summer. I'd split a number of baskets and found that in general the 500 baskets were still ok, no real movement of the large gear at the back, the 550 ones however were a different story. I have around 5 IIRC, 2 were buggered, 2 were ok and 1 was marginal. So I split 2x500 baskets and 2x550 baskets. One of the 500 baskets broke in 2 halves due to the force I was using to try and remove the existing rivets, lesson learned on how to remove them, if they won't punch out, drill right down the centre of them and collapse them inwards, sometimes just the drilling makes them drop out. I intend to refit the good 500 rubbers into the 550 baskets and get at least a working 550 basket.

However off topic. I was getting a lot of parts either ceramic or powder coated last summer. For a laugh I decided to get the basket done, the rear gear was done in a special coating designed to reduce noise and friction, designed to be used on car gearbox gears, so I had that done in that, along with the securing disc at the back, I'll get the primary gear it meshes with coated at some point but it wasn't available at the time. This coating only comes in one colour, a sort of gunmetal grey, so I decided on the same colour for the basket I'd had my CB1300 wheels done it, a really nice gold.

Here's the result

Basket. You can see the rivet holes have been tapped to 6mm.



Gear



Securing plate



Inner baskets





Assembling, brand new damper rubbers fitted.







Fully assembled with plates fitted.




And yes I know, you can't see it once it's fitted. Unless you look through the dipstick hole that is  But I am considering putting a window in the clutch casing and making a feature out of it. Another little project.

[Bryanj]

My answer is why not, you like it, you know its there so good enough!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

A Bling clutch, brill.👍👍👍