Tools for full engine rebuild

[Man Of Kent]

Hi all, I am just about to start a full engine strip down and rebuild on my 1975 CB400/4. Just wondering is their any special tools and equipment that I will need.

[Rozabikes Tim]

Surely your man for that is Laverda Dave. Understand he can build them blind folded behind his back. Should know the tools too.🙃

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

On my 400/4 project I did buy the Special Tool Kit that pretty much does everything except the alternator rotor. Mine came off easily without a puller. You need a good torque wrench for the lower torque settings. Last thing is you will need a very thin walled socket for the big end bolts. I ended up grinding one down to fit, no one seems to make a part that fits, at least I could not find one. A decent metric socket set is also needed.

A set of suitable drifts for removing bearings plus some circlip pliers .The special tool kit is handy for removing the clutch. You can do without but I'm for an easy life.

[Bryanj]

Rotor puller
Tool for clutch nut
Circlip pliers
3/8 drive torque wrench
3/8 drive 6 sided socket set
Patience
Cleaning bath
Possibly helicoil kit in different sizes
Possibly cam chain tensioner lock bolt repair kit

[Laverda Dave]

I agree with Ted and Bryan.

The clutch nut removal tool and the alternator puller are essential. An impact wrench if you have one (if not try and borrow one) will probably come in useful for the clutch centre nut especially if the engine is already out of the frame and you don't have the option of putting it in gear with the rear brake on (rarely works anyway 😕). Sometimes these nuts can be really difficult to remove if someone has had the clutch out before and just tightened the nut like a gorilla! Always replace the tab washer below the nut as well. Don't be tempted to reuse the old one.
Get yourself a blow torch, some of the enge casing nuts and bolts can be difficult to remove and a bit of heat works wonders. You will probably also find a few of the casing dowls don't want to come out but use heat and when the case around the dowl is hot enough insert a bolt of the correct size in the hollow dowl and grip it with parallel pliers to remove it.
That's the only special tool I would add to the list, a pair of parallel pliers, you won't know how good they are until you use them.
When you get the clutch basket out and emptied of the plates grip the large gearwheel in one hand and use the other hand to try and move the basket, if you can noticeably twist it you will need new cush drive rubbers otherwise you'll suffer with backlash when you release the clutch whilst riding. There's a thread on here about the subject and a former member, Max makes replacements. Well worth doing.
Lastly, Hondabond for when you reassemble the crankcase halves, do not use silicone gasket👍

[Laverda Dave]

Sorry, I forgot to mention the circlip pliers as mentioned by Ted. Don't buy cheap ones because a couple of the roller bearings in the engine are quite big and are held in place with equally large circlips that need a decent pair of circlip pliers to remove them. Cheap ones twist and the very thin prongs break off. Make sure you wear safety glasses when removing the circlips as there is a lot of spring energy stored in these when you remove them and if the pliers let go as you remove them they will fly across the workshop!

[Man Of Kent]

Thanks for all the advice so far, very much appreciated. Laverda Dave, you mention Hondabond, which one is better 4 or HT?

Cheers

[taysidedragon]

Also useful is a thread pitch gauge (metric) so that you can work out what to buy to replace any unusable bolts, screws or nuts. Honda use course, fine and extra-fine threads in different areas.

Threebond or Yamabond are usually cheaper than Hondabond and just as good.

[Aye Gee 1977]

I live near Ashford, and rebuilt my CB400F2 last year so I should have all the essential tools if you need to borrow any