SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Yet another clock resto' thread
exvalvesetdabbler:
Cleaning up the trip meter dials.
Both old gages that I have opened up so far have had damper oil between the trip meter dials, making it tight to zero and unsightly oil stains on the dials. My first attempt was to push paper strips between the dials to soak it up. So far so good, then it reappears a few days later. So there's no other option to clean them up properly. The reason the oil ends up on the trip meter is probably due to the angle that the gages sit when on the bike and it seems to have run across the bridge straight on to the trip meter. Why it ends up on the bridge in the first place is probably incorrect storage. Fortunately the odometer is clean because I didn't want to be removing that.
The trip meter is easily removed by pulling the c clip and the two 'brass strip' circlips. Remove the drive gear and then the small circlip seen on the right hand side. All of the dials, spacers and ratchet plates will then slide off the shaft.
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Damper oil contamination.
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To clean up these components, I dropped them in a pot of white spirit, EXCEPT for the dials, these were cleaned with a stiff paint brush and a strong solution of washing up liquid.
Components ready for reassembly.
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Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take plenty of pictures as there are slight variations. Older variants have metal separators and a nylon bush stacked with each one. In this example the separators were plastic and had no nylon bushes in between - or someone at Nippon made these on a Monday or Friday.
Also be careful not to loose anything, I spent ages looking on the floor for a brass shim that goes between the white dial and the circlip. Running a magnet over the floor and under cupboards was no help!
Regard
Dave
exvalvesetdabbler:
Needle tips.
Nipped in the model makers shop today looking for some luminous red/orange paint and came back with a pot of Revell SM 332 luminous red. The photo doesn't represent it well, it is more vivid orange than red and not a bad match and really jumps out at you and also matches with the color on the lid. The old paint rubbed off easily with some 1200 grit wet'n'dry. So far it looks like 1 coat will be enough.
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It's going to go a bit quiet on here for a while until I have sorted out getting the bases re-plated and finishing off painting the top bits. Damper oil is on a slow boat from China so there will be more on that task once it arrives.
I would welcome any suggestions or recommendations for getting plating done by post as there is nothing within reasonable distance to me.
Regards Dave
exvalvesetdabbler:
I have been busy plating and painting and of course found a few other bits in the to-do box.
I searched around for a few prices to get these done commercially and the price ranged from 50-100 quid + postage and VAT for 4 bases. On top of the risk of them getting lost I was facing a minimum 4 week turnaround. The plating firm that I used to use, and was in walking distance, only does anodizing now. Next nearest was a 90 mile round trip and they had a lot of poor feedback in regard of stuff not being done after weeks or lost. I was trying to avoid setting up to do this myself just for a few instrument bases but here we are. The risk of them getting lost was too great
I have put a heavy coat on these so hopefully they will last another 50 years or so. I am tempted to blow a bit of epoxy primer over them for good measure as well.
I keep finding a few other bits as well...........
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Evidence of previous pitting remains
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PS Received my new clock faces and trip reset boots from Marcel last week and they look very good and even managed to get the correct MPH/KPH faces to match the originals
Regards Dave
Johnny4428:
Absolutely cracking work there Dave on the gauges. Not a job I would tackle myself but if you have the time to spend looking for that small parts that decide to make a bid for freedom why not!😂
exvalvesetdabbler:
Got around to blowing a bit of epoxy primer over the recently galvanized bases. Gave them a brief dip in dilute acid to remove any white rust, rinsed them off and dried with a hot air gun and then straight on with the primer.
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Regards
Dave.
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