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Yet another clock resto' thread

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exvalvesetdabbler:
Not so smooth bush.

Starting to get things together for reassembly as soon as the epoxy  has had time to properly cure.

I noticed that the tacho still felt a bit lumpy when spun by hand so I flushed out the bush with white spirit.  Poured it in at the top and sucked it out at the bottom.  The first two flushes came out quite black then brown. Did 6 flushes in total and gave it a good spin each time. Then blew out residual white spirit using an air line and then put in fresh light oil using the same flushing technique.  It feels much better already.

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Regards
Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
Spot the difference.....

Speedo base - all 3 holes line up
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Tacho Base - mounting screw holes offset from main shaft
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I was hoping to get away with using a spare speedo base for the tacho because it was in much better condition.

Caused a bit of head scratching when the screw holes wouldn't line up >:(

Anyhow, not making much progress,  thick zinc plate + paint = crimp band not going on easily.

Out with the sandpaper tomorrow

Regards Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
A bit more progress today. I had to scape some excess paint and sand down the plating a bit on the mating surfaces of the base.  This is my first attempt and practice piece using salvaged parts from one crash damaged tacho and another with good cases and seized bush(broken glass, had standing water in at some time)

Crip ring back on the best I could.  Not pretty.

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Looks better from the other side.

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Just a bit of remedial work to tidy up the scuffs on the paint and make sure water can't get in under the few wrinkles left in the crimp ring.

Lessons learned.

- clean everything and then clean again before re-assembly
- any debris inside will end up on the inside of the glass
- make sure the glass is the right way up, convex on the outside!
- too thick paint in the mating surfaces makes life difficult
- getting the ring started folding over is the hard bit
- got a big bruise on the palm of my hand now

Regards
Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
Question for the experts.

Why do some bases have two drain holes and some don't.  The drain holes seem to let water in rather than drain it away.

Alternative versions have no drain holes and riveted light shields.

Might these be made for different climates. For the speedo's at least, the no drain hole version was a  130 mph scale version.  The one with drain holes came from  a UK  dual mph/kph scale.
Or is one of them just an updated version.
Regards
Dave

Oddjob:
Different makes? One a Nippon Seiki and the other a Nippon Denso? The larger ones differ in size between the 2 manufacturers and parts are not interchangeable.

I think Peter made a machine to roll the crimp ring flat, it either rotates around the clock or the clock rotates, the wheel presses the ring flat as it passed under it.

Good job BTW.

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