SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Yet another clock resto' thread
exvalvesetdabbler:
Just when you thought it was all done,
Couldn't find the thick washers that go under the cap nuts that hold the clocks down, thought I had made some long ago but no luck, maybe they got used else where. I couldn't find anything in stainless off the shelf. 19mm od and 2.2mm thick so made some from a bit of scrap 316 stainless bar.
Drilled and hacksawed them until they were more round than square and then turned them down in the lathe using a crusty OEM washer as a guide.
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Just rubbed them over varying grades of sandpaper on a flat surface, 80 grit emery cloth, 240 grit wet'n' dry then down to 400 and 2500 grit using oil. I'll give these a polish on the buffing wheel before fitting.
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That was my Saturday evening accounted for.
Regards
Dave
exvalvesetdabbler:
I still haven't found any M6 and M8 JIS B 1183 type 3 dome nuts in stainless has any one else come across them. The ones usually available to DIN 1587 are a bit longer and for the picky anoraks out there they won't look right.
Thanks
Dave
Oddjob:
Any M6 stainless domed nut should do.
I don't think there's any such thing as a JIS nut, screw yes.
I don't remember anything special about the 6mm domed nuts on the clocks myself.
I used 6 x 18mm stainless washers on my clocks IIRC. Standard thickness.
kent400:
You can find washers in stainless but they are 17mm as opposed 19mm original and they are called spacer washers so the don't quite cover the grommet. It is essential that the correct spacer tube and correct thick washer is used to prevent compressing the cushion too much. The gauges should be flexible in their mounting plates and if compressed too much it defeats the object of cushion which is to insulate the gauges from vibration.
As for the securing nuts, they are as you found difficult find and I found some in B&Q but the were zinc plated. I re-plated them in bright zinc and that did improve their appearance.
Going back on the thread being quoted £60 to re-plate a couple of bases is way over the top. I was getting them done for a fiver each, fair to say however I had prepared them so they could go straight in the tank. The drawback was the trip there and back to get them done so now I re-plate them. Those done yesterday are shown in the image.
As for band re-fitting a tool incorporating a skate board bearing in a drill press can make a quite tidy job on the underside using the support you have for the gauge. The underside isn't too much of an issue as it can't be seen.
exvalvesetdabbler:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on June 01, 2025, 07:07:37 PM ---Any M6 stainless domed nut should do.
I don't think there's any such thing as a JIS nut, screw yes.
I don't remember anything special about the 6mm domed nuts on the clocks myself.
I used 6 x 18mm stainless washers on my clocks IIRC. Standard thickness.
--- End quote ---
There are 3 flavours of JIS dome nuts, it's the type 3 that we are interested in.
Type 1 threads do not extend internally past the nut portion
Type 2 undercut in the dome to allow the male thread to penetrate further
Type 3 is just a nut with a very thin dome friction welded on , allowing greater penetration of excess thread.
If you look at the M10 nut that hold the suspension on, it's a welded on cap.
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Left to right original JIS B-1183 OEM dome nut, copy made by custom fasteners in the 80s and DIN 1587 cap nut. note the welded on cap on the original
Regards
Dave
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