SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
stiff clutch
Sesman:
This may sound incredibly stupid, but is it possible to install the clutch system progressively to try and isolate the problem? Eg, lever; lever plus cable; lever plus cable plus scroll mechanism…..and so on and so forth.
neat street:
Thank you all for your perseverance with this for me, it is very strange... Brian did mension the clutch springs and maybe they are the `heavier` ones (can anyone measure a standard spring wire thickness to check against mine please?? ( I assume this would be the difference between a standard or `heavey duty`?)) I will double check everything again over the weekend.
Thanks again K2-K6 for your advise.
Thanks Ken, will check the cable routing again.. the `mushroom` was free, will investigate again when stripped this weekend to double check.
Thank Ted, will go through your list.. Yes does have the ball bearing inserted. the adjuster is locked with the `horse shoe` and blot, will check the cable again, I had one fitted and a `new spare` when I brought it, I used the `new spare`(after market) so can check this again for length and compare ect.
Thank you Sesman, trust me, at this stage nothing is stupid :-), After I drain the oil again and strip/check, I will try and find a way of doing things in steps and test each bit if I can.
I would assume that it would not `run in` once the bike has started? At this stage everything is still in `building mode` not had it running for more that a couple of seconds as no exhaust/tank ect fitted (dont have exhaust yet, tank needs to be completly cleaned and paint removed (viniger comming today/Monday) :-) then painted ect, lots more to do, but want to make sure everything is working as it should before investing in one of the more expensive parts, the exhaust. once I know the clutch is OK, I can move on :-)
Murf:
You say the cable came with the bike, is it the correct cable? Just because it is the same as the one on the bike doesn’t necessarily mean it’s correct, so much stuff gets changed and bodged over the years. Is it a good quality cable.
Is the angle of action/pull between the clutch actuating leaver and the cable ok, say around 90deg or just a bit more to give the best possible leverage.
Bryanj:
I remember a bulletin that mentioned a mark on the alloy adjuster that had to be in a certain position on the "clock" as it were, not sure if all the bulletins are readable at the moment
florence:
I do not want to dismiss any of the excellent advice that is given in this thread and can only offer my own experience. Regarding heavy duty clutch springs. I am one of those idiots (thanks Bryan) who after lots of consideration and being fed up with slipping clutch, decided on a belt and braces approach and installed heavy duty springs from EBC, along with new plates and I can tell you that they have not made the clutch feel heavier at all. It feels very positive and I can sit at traffic lights with the clutch pulled in without problem and I am what one might describe physically as a weakling. ;D
Also, I have a non-standard clutch cable, about a third longer than usual and it is routed not following any recommendation, just where it seemed sensible to go, which is between the headlamp bracket and the headlamp, then alongside the top rail of the frame on the left side. Between the clocks felt to restrictive. Again, no adverse heaviness is discernible.
I am at a loss to advise what is happening on your bike but can say that I don't think the springs will be an issue, in my experience.
Is the gearbox clutch side cover off and so are you able to see what is happening in the basket when you pull the cable in. Is the actuator at about 4 o'clock when it engages. I have seen it happen that the actuating arm is too vertical, say 1 o'clock, meaning it does not have enough useful travel.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version