SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Pyramid Parts Tapered head bearings.
ST1100:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 22, 2025, 01:10:00 PM ---I think tapers are much better than the old ball bearing solution, they stiffen up the front due to the bigger contact area of the rollers versus the ball bearing. They also last far longer and require less maintenance.
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Out of interest: how do you determine the then different/new torque setting for the top cap? Spring-scale?
AshimotoK0:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 22, 2025, 01:10:00 PM ---Iirc Ash you need a spacer approx 2mm under the bottom race. If you use the seal that now comes with the kit these days you may need a slightly thinner washer.
Personally I think tapers are much better than the old ball bearing solution, they stiffen up the front due to the bigger contact area of the rollers versus the ball bearing. They also last far longer and require less maintenance.
The issue with the top race protruding isn’t really an issue imo, the top race fits inside it and the profile when it’s assembled isn’t that much different than ball bearings. The top locking nut is also dished so it should protect it from crud etc from getting in.
Most headstock bearings these days are tapered, if they weren’t better Honda wouldn’t fit them, which is something to consider.
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Based on what Ken is telling me plus hate buying stuff and having to trash it ...I think I (and Ben Powell) will persevere.
Good point Murf (sorry don't know your Christian name :-[ ) on the seating of the top race and I will make a thin shim to correct this once I have measured the parts.
Laverda Dave:
--- Quote from: Murf on October 23, 2025, 10:46:41 AM ---AshimotoKO The photo of the nuts showing the raised ridges where the two parts, nut and domed cover are fused together is interesting. Not just for the reasons you have posted them but also because the raised ridges are another reason I did not use the pyramid bearing kit.
The top of the original cup and cone bearing sits perfectly on the flat area within the raised ridges, whereas the taper bearing is wider meaning that the ridges sat on top of the bearing edge and the pressure to the bearing from the nut was just being applied by the ridges. I felt this was totally wrong.
Yes I could have made up a washer to fit that would have transferred the forces into the flat area of the nut but thought why should I mess around trying to make something that is not right fit. Especially when I already have something that fits perfectly and designed for the bike.
I felt that the pyramid kit was probably designed on a computer without anyone ever trying it out on an actual bike.
BTW I have nothing against computers and like tapered bearings as head bearings, just hasn’t worked for me this time. 😁
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Intresting point you raise Murf. When I was having trouble fitting mine I called Pyramid and spoke with the owner. He told me they had a similar issue with a kit they supplied for a Kawasaki (I think it was a KH) and they solved that by using a half bearing although I have no idea what a half bearing is having never seen one. The bearing would sit lower in the housing and would allow the fitting of the top nut. He asked me to send photos with measurements detailing the problems I was having with mine to enable him to work on a solution. I never heard anything back but I notice from just looking at their website they are still selling the same kit for the 400/4, very odd considering it doesn't fit properly (on my bike anyway). There isn't much of a description of the kit either only that it is a full set of bearings with grease and seals, nothing about any spacers being required (or supplied).
Oddjob:
--- Quote from: ST1100 on October 24, 2025, 09:10:41 AM ---
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 22, 2025, 01:10:00 PM ---I think tapers are much better than the old ball bearing solution, they stiffen up the front due to the bigger contact area of the rollers versus the ball bearing. They also last far longer and require less maintenance.
--- End quote ---
Out of interest: how do you determine the then different/new torque setting for the top cap? Spring-scale?
--- End quote ---
Yes, I use a spring scale. I find it more accurate than a torque setting.
ST1100:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 24, 2025, 08:27:37 PM ---Yes, I use a spring scale. I find it more accurate than a torque setting.
--- End quote ---
Would the 1.5~2.0kg/3.3~4.4lbs (given in Honda manual for larger bikes like the ST1100) also apply on the lighter 400/500/550?
Since I (yet) have never found a Pyramid (or any) kit that would actually fit the motorcycle at hand, I'm still biased... :-\
No fitting seals, shims/washers provided either too thick or too thin, bearing races too tall, not enough thread left for stem nut, top bridge height ends up wrong, neither steering lock nor limiters would engage properly... :o
OEM set OTOH is a no-brainer; installs right out the box, pack with marine lube, torque nut to the specs given in the manual, swivel, recheck, done... quick, precise, no headache... and most important: no 'headshake' when out on the road...
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