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Polishing rusty chrome

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Ken4004:
I have just seen this video about a guy in the States re polishing a rusty chrome mudguard, looks interesting although at the start he uses fine emery cloth to remove the rust before he starts polishing.
I would not of thought of using emery on chrome because I thought it is a very thin layer and wouldn’t take much to rub through .
Has anyone else used this technique on chrome ?

https://youtu.be/Ss7CfT41HzQ?si=3klvVXY8IiOcfr8p

Ken4004:
Sorry I make a mistake he used 00 wire wool , mixed this video with another I have been watching whoops, but I think wire wool would have the same effect as fine emery

florence:
I use those green pan scourers and brasso but then I am a hooligan.

Rayzerman:
A bit of experience, I de-rusted my CB350F rear fender and it came out very well.  I was not pitted.  There are various methods, see a couple of sample videos below... the key is you will need an acidic cleaner to start, and since one can't immerse a whole fender, I brushed on a liquid rust remover.  I later found a gel type, either will work.  I used a toothbrush to work it in occasionally, use more remover... it is water soluble, so rinse and repeat as needed.  On a couple stubborn spots, I used 0000 steel wool, I finished up with Autosol, and even tried Novus #2, which is a plastic polish with some very fine abrasive in it.  Both OK, just need elbow grease.

My exterior did not have pitting, so it came out very well.  The old chrome seems to have something I call "checking" not scratches, but just some kind of patina.  I recently have discovered methods of polishing paint to a show mirror finish, so I may attempt that.  But I'm also OK with this patina (you have to look for it), but the paint polish I have is super fine and no harm in trying it.

On the inner fender, the rust was everywhere and some pitting.  I brushed on the liquid rust remover generously, even used a brass brush.  I let soak for a couple of hours, then rinsed it off.  Repeated 3 times, knowing I was never going to get it all off or spend way too much time on it.  Since it's going to rust again, after getting it as good as I could, I masked off the edges and sprayed a "chrome" paint on it.  Knowing that would most likely not be durable enough, I sprayed a rubberized clear Leak Seal.  Tough to get uniform, so use light coats.  It comes out milky with the chrome paint (really not very glossy anyway) barely showing through the thicker rubber coating.  It's hidden, anyone looking would just see a silver appearance, but at least no rust showing.  It is sealed and rubberized, so won't chip or ever rust through again IMHO.

I haven't tried posting pictures here, but will attempt that.

My recommendation, try combination of methods but no abrasives coarser than 0000 steel wool, and some method of lubrication (Coke, water, vinegar, or some kind of gel or oil).  No to Scotchbrite pads, lol. If pitted, well, you will minimize them but not going to get rid of them.  My front fender unfortunately was bent previously, impossible to fix all the dents.... I just bought a new replica front fender..... justify it by paying yourself a small wage multiplied by the hours you'll spend, lol.  I could have bought a rear too, but it was good enough to restore.  And as likely many know, in doing a full restoration, in all likelihood, you're going to spend more than the bike is worth........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCaernur0g8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWCIpexgZm0

 

kevski:
Polishing chrome surfaces removes small amounts of chrome, the problem is that a lot of these old chrome guards have very little if any nickel or copper under the chrome, chrome has macro cracking naturally so therefore is not waterproof,  the iron in the steel oxidises and creates the problem, use aluminuim foil and wd 40 and rub the rust away, then use a very fine polish like brasso or silvo as these are finer than solvol.
My first post in 2 and1/2 years.

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