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rebuilding carbs

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exvalvesetdabbler:
D22 is the Keyster part number.


Here for the 550
https://www.jp-stores.com/mc/we70630/?c=329&show=20&mode=&keyword=&p=1

I have never found a better resolution image for these kits

Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
When setting float heights, honda doc's always shows a round bottom float so it's obvious where to measure from   The 400 has flat bottom floats, so should we measure from the highest point or the middle? Maybe a dumb question but someone has to ask it.

Not knowing I have always gone middle before to edge my bets on previous builds

Regards
Dave

exvalvesetdabbler:
Another kind of question regarding the small black bits that hold the float valve bodies in place.

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The clip is slightly curved, they all are. The above image is one resting on a bit of tool steel.

My assumption is that it acts as a dished washer and the prongs bear down on the center of the valve body to keep it in alignment rather than on the edge off center.  Installing it wrong way up could result in the valve body not sitting straight in the carb body.   Does this make sense?

Regards
Dave

Bryanj:
I always took as keeping pressure on the brass

exvalvesetdabbler:
Final assembly completed

Installed all the brass ware, throttle sync adjusters and fuel interconnectors.

Carried out a bench sync

Set the float heights. A couple of floats were not sitting right on a flat surface so they were straightened first

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A bit of work to do here looking down the line of floats. Swapping floats can even things up a bit before adjustment.

Using my float guage set at 21mm. It was still in the box of bits so that saved making another one.

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Final check using the Vernier calipers

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Just need to source some tubing for overflow and breather and we should be good to go.


For interest, here are the o ring sizes I used. IDxCS

Float valve 5.5 x 1.5
Main 4.1 x1.2
Fuel interconnects 6 x 2
Bowl 63.2 x 1.9
Drain screw 5  x 1.8

Regards
Dave

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